Lethbridge Herald, The (Newspaper) - December 31, 1910, Lethbridge, Alberta
MAKING THE BLOUSE LATEST FASHION NOTES FROM UUVyUOU JANITAIvT anil with !t countless opportunities for and ends of materials at "stoclc- clearing1'" prices. Verily, It is a "two- piece" season. Women can appear in gowns, -wraps and separate blouses and skirts, ftach one exploiting1 two or more which spells economy for all. Remnants, then, are the open eesame to modish garments, and first of all stand blouses in delightful, varied forms and in attractive simplicity thai is easily copied. Still fashionable is the long shoulder line, or the bodice and sleeve cut in one piece. The sleeves over in Paris axe three-quarter length or long, and the color of the separate blouse should blend with the' skirt or exactly match the shade of cloth. Crepe de chine, chiffon and the same materials of which, the skirt is fashioned are now used.. When making the- separate blouse, an tiikierHalng is necessary for transpar- ent material. Gulmpe-s with lace yokes and sleeves are more satisfactory when made separata, giving opportunity for renewal, for change and for upothe .laces. Look at the first model. Over a yoke coarse net a plain liberty satin -bodice is this time 'the shoulder lir.e -extending just a little below the VArmhole. The -width of the silk will decide how far down this will be for -you.' The upper part of the bodice is fceaded.with a band of nlack velvet, cut en ihe bias and fitting- perfectly at tbe collar line Over this at the front falls Httle frill of silver lace. There is a slight fullness at the girdle, obtained "by, slanting the side lines of the front and gathering- in on a band. The 'ileeves are merely an. extension of "the kimono pattern, edg-ed -with black bands and turned-back cuffs .of silver' lace. This model is charm- ing in dull green, royal blue or black. If the silver lace be too bright, veil It -before using- it with chiffon.' Thij is used by one of the smartest blouse shops in Paris. In second blouse there is a combl- mouiseline, Of course, a net foundation Is neceasary. collar and shallow yoke are "of ..ecru Jaee. -asd the mousseline upoer bodice reinforced by e, velvet band that ex- tends over each shoulder In a point The portion is of velvet "cut-in a dou- ble point and following the lower line of 'the band at the top. in this way vn, while lace subcuffs to match the yoke give a white touch that is al- ways This blouse Is stunning when made of cloth to match suit, although velvet is pre-eminently fabric this season. Does the military suggestion appeal? It is considered one of the newest ex- ploitations of the Jess clinging Unas. It is undoubtedly distinctive in style. The model sketched Is of royal purple cashmere and black satin. Over a satin foundation, which need not extend all the way back, an upper bodice of cashmere is applied. The front lines are outlined with silk-covered buttons and a bolero effect Is obtained by pointing the lower edges. The half-sleeves of cashmere are in one piece with the blouse portion, a, broad band satin being used on the lower parts. Buttons are again used at tbe cuffs. A soft bow of black satin is shown at the front. The stock collar of satin is headed with a turnover collar of white corded Something old enough to be new! "When this model is worn with a ratine suit, the 'effect is extremely good. Crepe de chine in a dull blue shade is trimmed with buttons and black velvet and shown clearly in the next design. Hare again is the lace collar. The- bodice Is edged at the top with a cir- cular band of black velvet, and the cir- cular idea is again repeated in the plain yoke below the velvet. A panel effect allows one width of material to be cut with the popular kimono sleeve. Simons of dull silver are placed in -two- rows on the front and on each. cuff. Xotlce how closely the sleeves fit at the wrists. Hooks wm gire jhe tight eSCect. A soft girdle, two inches In width: Is used to finish the blouse. More elaborate is -the last model. Over a white lace or embroidered tulle slip black chiffon La shirred. The outer bodice is quite simple, relying on the trimming- of velvet and silver burtons for elaboration. A bias band of vel- vet defines the collar line, and loops are used with buttons in two lines on the front of the blouse. "When planning the sleeves, add cir- cular turned-back cuffs and trim with loops of velvet and buttons. This or- nate model Is appropriate for a. velvet suit, and can be copied in colors to match- Just one glance at the TOW before you. Simplicity is dominant; distinct-, styles are here; the ubiquitous touch, of black shown, .the" .pleasing idea that any woman one rounds .out the attractive features of the "separate blouse. It is yours for the making.' THE NEWEST SHOES 'vf; if ever, tbe boots mud of women, must be carefullv considered. "We have the hobble skirt to thank- fc? tMa condition, for skirts are narrow, and -Is a tendency to show the shoes more than, in other sea- sons, the thought of the wearers has been well directed toward footwear. If you axe a sturdy thero are some models that hint of big- brother's college boots. They are cut less clumsy lines and, heavy as they are, they fit perfectly the foot for which they are made. They are and rejoice In a heavy sole and flat heel, .while they come bigfl up and are clasped by two straps at the top. Brown and. black the shadss worn by the woman men would class as sensible. From Paris comes the immense vogue for the cloth-topped shoe. It Is an expensive style, for to follow the original French Idea the uppers match the color of the gown, and that practically demands a pair of shoes for every costume. Any pro- test is met with open eyes and a sur- prised shrug. would you? Something must be the Parisienne will say. "but never the These cloth-topyed shoes are pro- curable in plain colors, gray, tan and dull green predominating, while tiny checks or shadow plaids are much in evidence among smartly dressed women. The heels are not the foolish French heels that have always been trying. They are high, military heels that give a good-looking arch to tha foot, and yet a. secure support. For carriage wear there are beauti- ful models, fnr trimmed and quilted. Into which the fortunate owner can' slip her Ilttlt feet. Brocaded boots are with fur ?.aa tied over the- .Instep with rold or silver braid. Others, are of suede, lined and topped Trttn. fur. "and one of the newest fas- tenings is of frogs, at the side. Boudoir slippers, with high heels and merely coverings for the front of the foot, are beautiful. They are Of all materials anc vary from the serviceable colors to the most delicate shades. The fronts are beaded and embroidered; they axe worked with- ruppla raffia or with ribbon Into flowers and leaves, quite like the decorations on French fancy work. Then again they are painted and out- lined with coarse silk floss. Little quillings of ribbon generally outline the front and bows of fancy buckles of the same fabric ornament the fronts. For evenings the styles are legion. Black satin and velvet., white kid and' the gold and silver cloths are In the foremost ranks, due, perhaps, to the great demand for these materials for evening: eowns. Little ornaments of tulle, net and satin are made to adjust on plain slippers, and frequently two or three sets will be sold with one pair of shoes. Beaded vamps are a natural outcome of the vogue for heads. The beaded styles are con- vincingly beautiful. Extremely high heels are the rale for evening slippers, so that woman can. look quite a little taller in the night. After all, there Is no excuse for un- attractive footwear, for never has there been shown such marked con- sideration for this Important depart- ment of woman's dress. TUNICS STILL HERE W-ITj. an Insistence that Is sur- prising and an effect that is undeniably becoming, tunics are still shown on all types of firowns. Tour husband, poor dear, probably wonders at the same lir.e that is suggested on new gv.vns. He remembers, vaguely, that he has seen that same double or triple effect before, and, if he be fearless, will suggest that there seems to be a needless repetition. But that only proves that he knows little of tha vagaries of Madame la Mode. Tunics that vary from ripples of nip length to long skirts that drop to within a few Inches of the ground are still in great favor. They can be of any material that you choose, and can be weighted down with beads, fringe or braid. They can be straight or with modified lower line, but they are the accepted lines for trimming, and that is the main thing. And why sot? Do they not solve the question of veiling- one material with another, and solve it success- fully? Is there not a wonderful field opened up when color Is considered? And last of all. do they not afford excellent opportunity for combining two remnants? Oh, joy to the limited purse! So much for the figure can be done by a tunic that one does not wonder at the continuation of favor of this style. A short figure can have .sev- iachea added in by a cleverly arranged tunic that brings the of the bodice down alonc- txift skirt. A tall, thin figure can be rounded and shortened by double or triple break an abnormally long line. So gather your tunics around you madame. and enlighten an husband anent the factor of dress that will be carried over into a new season. New Turbans OF COURSE, the little, "top" hat a few milliners call the closely fitted turban of fur and velour, has had its day and a few mghts. too. and It is not surprising back As to the place at which wlnjrs rise V? the wiUlnery occasion it wo-ld be difficult to say. They are of all sizes and shapes, and give a Thev" hats rne> are decidedly less expensive than plumes and are invariably be ins. So what more can you re- THE FRENCH CAPITAL r thls reaches vou little 1911 wi.il maWn; ft t entry. To up" to velvet jelyet and furs, and. if possible, bow 2lf With PlUmed hat ln Jond And one other note about that hat-it should turned up at-the front This, of is not surprising, for it has ages since- this line has been adopted. The very newest models show this tendency. Changeable Wick and whita effects are shown In millinery, silk dresses and chiffons. The rage fer this aniancdi which you will remember was predicted In these columns almost a year ago, has not abated. Black and hold tbe of the fashionable stage. Of -J'jurse. are always being exploited new colors under new names, and fre- quently there are shown daring color but no woman will be be- yond the pale If she selects black and white-. For morning, afternoon and- evening, and in hats and dresses, these two shades are dominant Some charming little bonnets for the theater are seen on the stage and in the auditorium. Mademoiselle Eve Laval- Here, in "Le-Bois wears an at- tractive- Httle one of scarlet satin with a very high fantasie In scarlet; It com- pletes the long, fur-trimmed coat Now, or course, the scarlet is striking and looks .well in a stage set- ting, so our well-dressed Parisiennes have, copied the Idea in more subdued colors. Black studded with jet with a huge white aigrette placed at tbe back, is much seen. These little shapes are very becoming and are cleverly -de- signed bo defv the law. Gray linings for black velvet wraps are now the thing. With these velvet coats, by the way, little turbans of vel- vet are worn. They are rolled away from the face, and the usual trimmina is a high marabou aigrette. Violet and blue are used by three the leading houses here. Each stands for a different style-, but all have soized these shades and are- using them with great auccess. At the tearoom of the Rita yesterday a wonderful afternoon gown was worn a hostess of a little gathering of women, it of cream, mousseline soie and had a. broad band of tapestry- blue satin edged with skunk fur and headed with a two-Inch band of Waok velvet enriched by steel ess to say, the bodice had three-quarter kimono sleeves matching the skirt in the band effect. A draped fichu of mousseline vrns the trimming, and yoke and collar were of silver lacs veiled with mousseline. A sash of old blua satin completed the.gown. Huge bone buttons ars shown on some of the plainest tailored suits of rough ilixed materials with better wearing quality than that possessed by ratine bid fair co be the thing for spring suits. The- newest veils arc of the filmiest cobweb meshes, with shadowy flowers or odd designs In chenille'dots. Immense bags fashioned of the gayest embroidery or changeable velvet carried with all costumes. Cloths of gold and silver, with raised flower de-' signs, are also seen, and the cord to the drawing string for all. ELOISE. SIMPLICITY IN HATS FOR those 'women wh'o object fluffy ruffles or perishable plumes there are hats that sound the note of elegant simplicity, and sweet is the -music thereof." Can you picture an im- mense black velvet shape with a low crown, faced on the under brim with 'old blue satin? Then at one side, so that it can rest on the hair, is a. single rose of silver tissue over blue. This simplicity, to be compemng and elegant, necessi- tates excellent workmanship, or else all is lost. But the point to be observed is tbat no tawdry trimming mars becom- ing lines, and the brim is sufficiently graceful in curve, to have a softening- effect on the face of the wearer. Another type of the newest .hats Is that which turns up abruptly from the face. There Is no trimming on a velvet shape of this style, or, if the buyer ,be very insistent, perhaps a large button, jeweled or enameled, will be placed seemingly to hold brim up from the hair. Hats are fashioned of ratine, a cloth, after this model. Perhaps the large, simple shape, edged with a band of fur and accompanied with pins made especially for it, IB typical of the season, it does not sur- prise us to the touch of fur, and whether it be expensive ermine or'chin- chilla, skunk or Australian opossum, the narrow band la a decidedly modish finish for a broad, low shape of velvet, tapestry or Persian brocade. Hers again the workmanship must be well-nigh per- fect: pitfalls are numerous for the care- less, and this point may check in a. way the well7deserved favoritism that a fetr of us are according the untrimmed hat. Xot long ago the felt shape, absolutely was launched upon the mil- llnery wave. It came slowly at first; then it .wassreduced to 9S cents, and now it is retreating .hastily from the front row is the show windows. It has suffered from a. too intense exploitation; In. words, the' untrimmed shape of felt or" velvet has been pro- nounced posse.' But you need not be disturbed, ilake' an ornament of cord, silver braid; wind it around a jeweled button or "the top of a broken hatpin and place the cabochon on the crown' or the turned-up brim, where it really should have been before! The "simplicity is' there still, but a, finished effect is the result." Probably the message of hope that these simple hats extend to us- Is this: They are decidedly moderate in price! are twice as serviceable and just as becoming, and as a. charming ex- emplification of the "wurgation of as Michelangelo said they sts.nd in beauty of Hae that is al- ways attractive in the field of dress VELVET MUFFS AND SCARFS HAVE you seen the gorgeous sets that are unusual and yet copy- able? They are huge muffs and and black Is the favorite color for the outer fabric. Brilliant linings used to give contrast, and the whole Is enriched by bead, embroidery or a. combination of both. Imagine a. black velvet muff lined with royal blue satin. On the upper surface there Is an extra, flap attached along the up-per -seam and lined with, blue. It is turned down over "the front merely as a decoration, and each cor- ner is turned back, reveling ol'ia lining. On these, blue points there in a design in black arid white beads. The scarf to match is immense, ap- pro-aching a small shawl in size and comfort. It is lined with blue, of course, and has a straight turned-back flap for a collar that fits around the neck. Beads axe used here for the at- tractive ornamentation. Other velvet sets are touched up .with. silk embroidery, not the long, fiat stitches, but a. newer method of cover- ing the surface. Chain stitches of heavy silk are used, each loop giving the effect of a bead. The whole result is beautiful, and .again, we can thank Japanese for their embroidery, hint. Brown sets lined with old gold satin and decorated with brown silk and to- paz beads are very convincing. Dull greens trimmed "with vivlfi greens and embroidered with gold, blue an4 green hint of the- peacock's colorings, while gray velvet offers many "possibilities for color combinations. It is a 'neutral and with It anj- touch of bright co.er can. bs .allied safely. Orange al- ways looks well with, gray. Royal blue and steel "beads are wonderful in effect, while coral, scarlet, emerald green, black and white and purple are suggestions that should to the artistic 'jye. These velvet sets are beautiful and useful. They are decided- ly moderate in price and are distinctive in style. And, as a final commendation, they can be cut into bias bands for trimming when the fashion is no more. NECKWEAR NOTES outdoors there are now seen M straight, flat scarfs, to be worn benaath the coats, edged with fur or marabou. These are built on the lines of knit mufflers and are made of soft silk, wadded. They can be procured in all colors. Knitted scarfs are now very broad, and are fitted at the shoulder seams. On many there are standing collars that can be turned down you pre- fer. White and black combinations are newest. They resemble the evening scarfs worn by men. To prevent any crocking of fur col- lars on evening- wraps, there are now being sold little flat collars of ywces and sleeves, but veiled with chiffon over satin. They are not. for or fe scie. in shades sleeves beads are still the predominating- note of decoration. In designs or in regular dotted lines they sparkle out their beauty, the latest being a glittering array of beads of all colors, giving an iridescent effect. Fashion's Straws -ARQUISETTE. cotton voile and loose meshes will be the ma- terials for spring and summer house frocks. Embroidery in porcelain beads is to be used on lingerie- dresses for children and grown-ups. Geld and silver lace will be fashioned warmth, but- when made to match the linings of wraps they add a delightful touch of beauty and utility that few women can re- sist. So soft are these new scarfs that the outer wrap fits the wearer in unwrinkied glory just the same. Ratine, that crepeliko woolen ma- terial, is being made dnto sailor col- lars and cufTs. These sets are worn with tailored suits, with long tw.eod coats for mornings or with velvet suits for afternoon. Have you noticed the collarettes of chiffon with brocaded designs in velvet? They are made.to clasp the throat without unattractive fcuiki- ncss. and one end is thrown around the shoulders, while the other hangs flown in front. Long blouses. are- the r.ewest on The military trinanSng or braid and buttons is appareiu jn some or the aesjgns for the new year. _ Turned-over collars or white benga- lir.e are to be used on satin blouses. Gficct is stiff ar.il neat and de- cidedly appropriate for tailored suits. Chenille cloth resembling woolen crepe, of a soft tcxfjre s.r.d IScht ;n weight, will be used for spring Presses. JJarge patches of ilat embroidery will bo used on frocks of this material. BJue and lavender arc iv> be aliied IT. in rough tweeds, changeable velvets and iridescent moire. Yellow combined with green is predicted for F'e corning season, and a touch of ceriso On the gauze ana "ckwear as suireested oa both gowns and hats. Si.