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Coty 'Winnie Awards GoTo Three Top DesignersBy CLKi-VOR LUUUIISEW YORK — A fur designer a ho fought m the French Underj’txind. » Philadelphia sociablewho cummates to New York to co-sign her couture fashion.’ and ft1 sportsman who creates sports clothes for women shared American fashion's highest bonoe. the iVtv American Fashion Chucs' Awards, last rught at the Metro-; •' un Museum of Art. jThe Aw-ard's celebrated ’Win r. e 1 trophy was presented to 0*0cosigner*: Miss Leslie Morri*. de-lt; cnrr of raade-tc-order clothes for Rcrgdor! Goodman of New York.r.d Sydney Wraggt cj B. H. '«V:;i.gje. New York designtr ot ;.‘inv-tow ear sports clothes and coordinated separates.Special AwardA special award of a silver pla lt;pje was made to Bergdorf Good-run's fur designer. Enteric Imre frircos. who came to American inshion via his native Hungary antf France, where he served as a sel d.er and resistance fighter as well a couturier.The selections were made by TP fvshksn rditors in the 15th award jury. Ctoty. Incorporated, began the awards in 1942.Summing up the jury 's designation of Sydney Wragge. Miss Eugenia Sheppard, awards chairman, rted his “non-classic approach to sports fashion, which brought clarity of line, richness of fabric and arresting color treatments into the realm o! casual clothes. *Sports EatlHtsiftstBorn and educated in New York Ci«y, Mr. Wragge has managed to lead a vigorous outdoor Ufe as a golfer and sailboat enthusiast.He began his fashion career as ft designer of men’s shirts, bat his interest in good looking sportswear for both men and women gradually brought about an expansion in the scope of his designing.He is credited with introducing the sleeveless dress, with making the raix-match wardrobe a “best-dressed habit, and with forecasting the end of the neavily.paddedera m women's clothes as early as ’ t9M with a strait easy shift dim of grey jer*ey which could be “dressed up with jewel* or worn casually.CMm DesignerThe “Winn-e” was given to Leslie Morris, Miss Sneppard said, “for her consistently creative ap k,roach to a highly specialized kind of fashion assignment. . .1 America s few- custom* designers never make models to be directlyduplicated in volume or to be•launched' as trends. . . in this rarefied American atmosphere Leslie Morris operates with notable charm.Leslie Morris wts bom in New York, but can trace her fashion Homage to a Virginia-bom moth er and a present-day Ufe in Phila delphia. where, as the wife of a prominent lawyer, she is a well known Main Line socialite.Apart from a bnef preltn* when he designed clothes partly as a lark for her family's favorite couturier. Harry Coll in s. Mtss Morris has spent her entire career under the banner of Bergdorf Goodman where she beads the custom design salon.In announcing Emcric Partus as super iauvtiy tine wools and pure w inner of at special award. Miss; *i*ks.Sheppard specified hi* bold and Also. many of me costumesoriginal approach to designing b,f°^ht ** ^ orthodox blend fliMB a. , . . , , , ^ * 01 coior*, tucb strong pink andlurs . . , his umsMburd and un Dn£ht ^ or olne «.thafraid technique keeps the most pink. His elegantly slim slack* lavish fui» from looking too rich and at-home pajamas were shown and even from looking too insist- with binged overblouses and neat.t ■ a a .a » veatly like fur*.''Bom in Hungary and trained as a jeweler and couturier before he tccame a fur designer. Emenc Parto* came to Sew York on leaveboxy jacket*.\ Included it. the selections werv a group frorn the forth cocr.inr Wragge resort collection empha sizing his newest dea, “the orv--- — - — ** ~ ^of absence from the atelier ot icntal houseboy silhouette. 1Christian D»r whom he had metppued by the tea planters house before the war jboy costumes cf narrow wrappedAfter serving in the French' sarong skirts of ankle length top-army and later in the undergr of the French resistance. Mr. Par-tos became well known in the Paris Haute Couture and. as an associate of Dior, met Maximilian, the late great furrier, who persuaded him to come to New York. Sinceped by square and impeccably tailored white linen jackets.Sftrpriiiag MaterialsThe clothes by Leslie Morris U lustrated the designer’s subtle use of surprising materials, and ber skill in determining a highly ac1955 Part os has been the designer cepiab'e balance between the cur of custom-order furs for Bergdorf rent mode and her own eon cep Goodman. ition of how- a woman should alI'wortfcodox Blendwtays look—beautiful, elegant.The sequence of sports fashions restrained, hy Sydney Wragge underscored- Characteristic were the absolut-th.s designer’s love ot giant blocks) ely perfectionist “little suit read-of strongly contrasting color in' Hy visualized in the wardrobe ofthe most fashionable woman inNrithe world, and again, the very romantic evening dress of silk up v hdstery damask and fringe.Shown in conclusion was a series of huge, typically Leslie Morris ball gowns of silk slipper satins, silk taffeta, and silk chiffon in varied shades of rose.Fftr CombinatMWThe presentation of furs by Enteric Part os w as a testimonial to hi* mastery o* turner's technique expressed in couturier terms.Included were a number of coats in two furs, such as nutria and badger, and others of fur with fabric. Characteristic in several respects was a dark ranch mink coat with the skins worked upside down, and with a wide waistband of brown velvet.Drawing equal applause was a Jong ermine middy designed to wear over at-home slacks or with after-ski skirts. Fabulous evening furs included a stole of black mink falling to the floor.Red ThemeTwenty-seven costumes, ail in shades of red. formed the panorama of American fashion talent which has already figured in the Coty Award's 15 years lt;x selections.They ringed from a “rain coverall” of w ine red poplin by Bri . gance to a devastating figure moulding garnet sequin evening gown by Nonran Norell. the threetime Coty winner who last year was cited by the jury to enter . the Award’s Hall of Fame.
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Corpus Christi Times

Corpus Christi, Texas, US

Fri, Oct 04, 1957

Page 12

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Daniel M.

GB 26 Jun 2022

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