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belies its name, Poor I its aspect, offering a Ernest Nejame opened is proud of the fact that •e still involved in itssurprises.First, the name evokes images of a friendly, casual place. Instead, the menu is French, elegant, and delightful.Next, the facade of the building at 204 Crown Street, is restrained. Once inside, however, the difference is dramatic. Smooth pink tablecloths, massive bouquets of fresh lilacs, stained glass, and ornate gilt mirrors meld into a setting of grace and charm.At a recent luncheon at Poor Lads, I sampled the Soupe Onion Gratinee and highly recommend it. The soup was rich and the cheese topping had just the right texture. Then the owner and maitre d’Hotel, Ernest Nejame, dashed a touch of sherry on top of the soup— an inspired addition.I next chose the Salad Poor Lad, filled with hearty slices of cucumber, generous amounts of tomatoes, and a sour cream dressing that was neither thick nor runny. Pepper from an enormous peppermill was freshly grated over the salad after it was served. A beautiful creation.The specialty of the day was Roast Leg of Lamb, served with crisp watercress and small white potatoes. The tender lamb slices were coated with a masterful brown sauce.The elegant luncheon ended withappetizers on the a la carte luncheon menu are: Quiche Lorraine ($1.25), Escargots de Bourgogne ($3.50), and Clams Casino ($3.50).Luncheon entrees included Broiled Fish du Jour ($3.50), Fresh Scallops Provencale ($3.75), Crab Meat Salad Sandwich ($3.25), and Cold Shrimp Salad ($4.25).9The a la carte dinner menu is written in a lovely, ornate script and the selections are enticing. How to choose between Crab Cocktail ($3.50) or Mussels Parisienne ($2.75)? Or between entrees such as Chateaubriand Flambe du Cognac for two ($22) or Fresh Florida Snapper with Lobster Sauce and Crab Meat ($8.50)? Perhaps Roast Duckling Flambe with Sauce Monmorency ($7.95) or Escalope of Veal Cordon Bleu ($8.50).Dessert ideas: Strawberries Romanoff ($.2.75), Chocolate Mousse ($2.00) or Crepes for two ($4.50).The vast wine list offers more enjoyable decisions.Brazilian Coffee, Irish Coffee or Expresso might conclude your meal.Though I chose a busy hour to dine, when businessmen were whisking in and out for lunch, the service was swift and unobtrusive.AHUM U1 V IICXlllvVI attable or at the charming girandole (a circular platform for cooking). Eating at Poor Lads is a dramatic experience!The restaurant is minutes from Long Wharf Theatre and from the Yale Repertory Theatre. On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, Mr. Nejame imports a band for entertainment in the “Greenhouse Room” on the second floor. There is also an intimate cocktail lounge.Mr. Nejame named his restaurant Poor Lads because he and a partner opened “on a shoestring/’ That was 10 years ago and today many of the same employees remain, including the skilled chef, Anton Pipenbacher.To get to Poor Lads, take the Connecticut Turnpike to Exit 47 (Downtown New Haven). This exit leads to the downtown expressway. Take the first exit off this road, then turn right at the stop light onto Church Street. Turn left at Crown Street (second left) and Poor Lads is on your left at number 204. It is open Monday through Friday for lunch from 11:30 to 3 p.m. Dinner is from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Friday, and to 10:30 p.m. on Saturday. Most credit cards, except Master Charge, are accepted. For reservations, call 624-3163.
Newspaper Details
Darien News
Darien, Connecticut, US
Thu, Jun 09, 1977
Page 81
Full Page
Clipped by
Anonymous
USA 26 Feb 2024
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