RogerShermanInnThe ultimate in diningBy Diana BarnardA beautiful pre-Revolutionary home houses the Roger Sherman Inn on Oenoke Ridge, New Canaan—where connoisseurs of fine food from all over Fairfield County gather to savor the cuisine of Chef Walter Maliszewski.Built in 1740, the inn was once a private home and was owned by a descendant of Roger Sherman, Connecticut's representative to the Continental Congress and a signer of the Declaration of Independence. Nine years ago, the building and its lovely, tree-shaded grounds were purchased by Mr. Maliszewski, his partner, maitre d’ hotel Stephan Zur, and two “silent’’ partners—and its renown spread throughout knowledgable dining circles.A memorable feast here might begin with a succulent lump crabmeat cocktail or onion soup gratinee—or perhaps Mr.Maliszewski’s potage du jour (we sampled his lobster bisque, to our great pleasure.)Entrees range from such specialties de la maison as Dover sole saute amandine ($11) or curried supremo of capon, Bombay, served with fried banana and pineapple ($6.50). Then, too, there’s a wide choice from les grillades et roties, including Chateaubriand, garni for two ($24), a great specialty, or double ribbed lamb chops with mint stuffed pears ($8.50).Salads are crisp and flavorfully dressed, and desserts offer a tempting range from mousse au chocolat, Vienna apple strudel and eclair glace to cherries jubilee and crepes suzette.Luncheon al fresco is especially pleasant at the Roger Sherman, where one may sit beneath a big cedar on the sun dappled terrace, or relax on the wide veranda, while enjoying such treats as shrimp en brochette ($5.50) or eggs Benedict ($4.) Appetizers include escargots Bourguignons ($3.50), supreme of fresh fruit au Cointreau ($1) or proscuiutto with melon ($2.75)— and the soups are culinary triumphs in themselves. There’s a cold buffet, too, for warm weather lunching.HANDSOME MURAL of a Revolutionary battle scene occupies one wall of the Drum Room which also has a large Bow window. —photos by Allison Weissman.The rooms at the Roger Sherman are spacious and rambling—from the Drum Room, with its mural of a Revolutionary battle scene and inviting bow window, and the Blue Room, enhanced by a Tiffany stained glass window, corner cupboard and Portuguese tiled fireplace, to the Vintage Room, all decorated with wine bottle labels. Also designed for pleasant dining are the Gold Room and another room downstairs for banquets.And there are extra special culinary offerings. Mr. Maliszewski’s beef Wellington and souffle Grand Marnier are among his claims to local fame—and so is his pommes souffles, a delicious crisp potato basket filled with lighter-than-air puffed potatoes— the perfect “munchy” to accompany the Roger Sherman’s well made cocktails.The lounge, with little drum tables placed around a horsehoe bar and a fireplace decorated with very old Dutch tiles, is a gathering place for both before and after dinner socializing. Here, Hal Jordan plays the piano on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 7 p.m. to midnight, and on Fridays and Saturdays from 9 p.m. to 1:30 a.m.The Roger Sherman Inn is truly what its name implies. Not only does it offer fine food and drink, but overnight and long-term lodgings are afforded in its upstairs rooms and in apartments in other buildings on the three-acre grounds.Luncheon is served from noon to 2:30 p.m. daily, and dinner from 6 to 9:30 p.m. weekdays, and until 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. The inn is closed Sundays. For reservations, which are required, call 966-4541.