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Length for Semi-Formal, New Style Trends/a!FNEW YORKBy MAR(»I ERITE YOl NOLadies and gentlemen, It'a the McCoy, American fashion is being set by and for the people of this country in the New York designers’ fall openings,Sally Milgrim did it ■pectacularly, She calle her fashion I Arabesque. But what’s in the name? This Milgrim collection is 1 as American as slang—adaptations and combinations of ideas Ipicked up from hither and yon. True, the source is ancient and |far-away. It is the Bible country of the Near East. But the clothes are put together on the thread of Milgrim’s personal experience of Near East geography. And they are timely as tomorrows war bulletin from that front. For instance, they introduce a knee-length dinner skirt?« .ZZw.W 7//at-I aE'J'-C lt;3■V.%'ir-V ■-MK• -10■KadtiPErV\. •* r ' *r*- a harem skirt, by the way-and a nine-inches-from-the-ground skirt which this designer says will go to parties this busy winter, from twilight on. And a corset with six sturdy bones to say, Hips, round, round!Nine Milgrim colors are uspd. Some are hues you never saw before except maybe In museum pottery or the Arahlan Nights. There’* Shangri-la Red, a pinkwithf! f ' irnH||Vand brick tones; andPersian red, a ceriseand Scher-ezade red, which Is deep and blends with purple, A decided purpjish cast comes out in surprising places in these clothe* — even in the Maharajah bronze, which really looks like the metal or like the elm tree that turns bronze in Ihe fall. Milgrim’s Arabian Midnight Sky blue is dark as the stormiest heavens, hut not black. Her Arabian Sea green is dark yet more lively than mostdark green; her Persian Sea green is pale, near aquamarine but greyer.All these glorify the tent-pole silhouette.” That's Milgrim's name for what she got when she took a lot of shape-ideas that have been used gingerly and separately In recent seasons, and put them all together to form a big-shouldered, tight-belted figure draped narrow at the knee or ankle.This designer, who’s always going places and who seems never toforget her business, went to the Near East ten years ago. She liked the Orientals' clothes and the colors of the sultry earth and water. And she remembered, and built this collection around them, persuading American fabric-makersto dve things for her.ORIGINAL lt;UTIIES —III T PRACTICAL, TOOThe theme dress naturally willremind you of The Sheik.” It is extreme. It’s silk jersey with bronze top and Baghdadsleeve, which means great-big.draped sleeve. Other designersmake news, this year, fectly flat shoulders; makes shoulders bigger And she overlays them tastically rich embroidery, beads, or sequins. The neck has no fastening; it’s low and behold.”But wait. Milgrim takes this !brazen silhouette and these unheard-of colors and works them into wearable clothes. Her knee-length dinner dress with harem skirt is made of black wool jersey. Round-necked with demurewith per-Milgrim than ever, with fan-ynitI£ifneIc•jr.mTntnvaf■• •WV Tr * A ‘F. ^ if i%ctfrr$ttVa■cr.Y*Sally Milgrim’s “tent-pole” silhouette, above, is the center ofher spectacular newcollection. TenArabesque’’ collection. Ten colors and many novel shapes were introduced. This silk jersey formal has a slit harem skirt of Maharajah brown. Those are Baghdad(big) sleeves.fi\fI«iji'■■Wiiii . ..... //PITFALLSSequelMorrioge“Low and Behold” is what Sally Milgrim calls the daring neckline, above, shown at the New York designers’ openings. The blushlike metal evening dress has a wrap-around skirt which undrapes the knee when its wearer walks.the shoulder with cartridge-pleat- and itturban.decorates the matchingPersian fur hand, and smoothly ing to make the wide ”camel-boy” fitted long sleeve, this dress could shoulder, and she piles the cartgo from any office to almost anyNaturally, most Milgrim hatsI PUSHED BACK the obviouscomment that we already were sure Marion never had written the letter to Ronald except under compulsion, and instead gave enthusiastic interest to her assertion.How do you know that?” I asked.May I have the book a second?” she asked, and I handed it to her, watching her intently as she ruffled the pages until she came to a place where the thin sheets seemed to have changed to a sort of thickened pad.Do you happen to have a tiny sharp knife in your sewing kit,” she asked, the kind you use in ripping seams?”Yes, I’ll get it in a second,” I said, and went noiselessly through the masked door into the bedroom of the balcony suite, secure from interrupting my father’s interview with Nancy Carew because of the door between the living room and the bedroom which I had closed at his bidding.Hears Father Question Nancycomposure. Or Arabian Skyparty with perfect consider Milgrim's blue, long-aleeveddress.It has a huge, simply huge, round hemline. The skirt is setridge pleating on again in a wave- are turbans. Some shoot up, or like decoration on the lower part out. Others droop, and have flowof the skirt. It’s exotic hut wear- ing drapery.taffeta dlnnei able. So are most of the collection's suits. Her bronze wool hasNot every woman can buy these lush, slimming, very-female Mil-a round, gored and pleated skirt grim originals. But you’ll know and hronze silk accordion-pleated they exist if you watch clothes; blouse with beaded yoke and they set a specific, identified fash-cuffs. The jacket Is hip-length. ion, and one that could easily in-. I . ' . A A .on a yoke at the waist, which produces that smooth round-hip line. .[’here's a transparent yoke at the Wolverine fur makes a huge yel- spire the makers of ready-to-wearshoulders also, Milgrim outlines lowish-brownlsh-hennaish m u f 1, wardrobes.But though neither of them had any idea that I was within hearing, I could not help hearing my father’s voice, unusually loud for him, as he put a tense question: Ricardo? Stepan Ricardo? Are you sure that was his name when you first knew him? What is your proof?”I could hear Nancy Carew’s low, trainante voice answering him, but could not distinguish her
Newspaper Details
Athens Messenger
Athens, Ohio, US
Tue, Sep 09, 1941
Page 6
Full Page
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Anonymous
USA 13 Nov 2019
Other Publications Near Athens, Ohio
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