Hide Article Text (OCR)
By LORRAINE CARREN For The CapitalLast summer, the area was buzzing about the opulent converted ferryboat that Sam Sardinia parked right in the middle of everything on Spa Creek. This year, the hot topic is Sam Sardinia’s Club International.Here’s the scoop: Although the club ultimately aims for . private membership, it’s now open to all on a unique basis. All food, most drinks, taxes and tip are included in an hourly fee for each person. You opt for the buffet ($12 per hour) or for “fine dining” which includes a six-course meal as well as visits to the buffet ($24 for the first hour, $12 for any hour thereafter). With duty calling, we made reservations for five people and six courses on a weeknight.7:15 — We arrive. After a credit card or driver’s license is requested, each of us is issued a name tag that identifies us by first name. It’s an interesting move, but we already knew each other. The staff never becomes familiar enough to address us by name.7:25 — Ground rules laid, we’re ushered to out table. It’s not one of those at the window, with spectacular views of the Severn River, the Naval Academy and racing spinnakers on the bay. Still, we can’t help but admire the place. Resplendent with potted plants, crystal chandeliers, a gray-and-rose color scheme, soft carpeting and cushy seats, the restaurant never looked better. It has finally been infused with the same sense of generosity and comfort that Sam Sardinia himself exudes.7:30 — Our first round of drinks comes with a wedge of almond-spangled baked brie and a warm loaf of thinly sliced bread. We leave them for a brief expedition to the buffet. Cherrystone clams and oysters adorn the raw bar. Shrimp salac tuna salad and assorted chunks of fresh vegetables accompany another array in which steamship round of beef, chicken in wine sauce and slices of'fish are featured. Cautioned by the manager that I won’t have room for what lies ahead, I take samples of the seafood and of both the shrimp and tuna salads. What I taste seems first-rate.Melting and mellow, the brie with almonds is delicious, but it goes unnoticed by the staff that the loaf of bread (small for five people) hasSARDINIA’Sa►At the Old Severn River Bridge757-2424IReservations: Suggested. Hours: Dauly, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday orunch, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.Handicapped access: Yes. Parking: On premises.Credit cards: Accepted. No-smoking area: Yes.quickly disappeared. We have to ask for more.Our single malt scotches without ice or water are fine. Mixed drinks, however, tend to be weak. The stab that I take at a glass of house white wine is unrewarding. There is an extra charge for bottled wines should we want them. Yet, on the positive side, there are frequent visits from our waitress to ask about requests from the bar. Orders, if any, are promptly filled.Unlike drinks, which are ordered as we go along , our entire meal is ordered soon after we settle in. The menu of the day presents two alternatives for each of the courses.The first course, for example, consists of a choice between cold vegetable soup or hot vegetable crab soup. Marinated mushrooms with hearts of palm or a house salad comes next. A cold mixture of lan-gostino and crab or smoked trout follows as a third course and the fourth offers broiled salmon or shrimp sauteed with crab. A choice between veal with “red sauce” or beef filet with mushrooms ends our decision-making at that point We’re to select desserts at the end, when the sweet trolley is rolled up.Our “culinary guide” although eager, willing and nattily attired, doesn’t know too much about the preparation of the food. We all do the best we can, however, and the soups arrive even before we finish the brie. Both brews are smartly spicy and appealing, but the obvious iise of frozen vegetables and the lack of much crab keep the hot soup in second place. Cold vegetable soup, dominated by a tomato base, comes off ast something like an elaborate gazpacho, with cuts of broccoli and carrots added. It's good, but a blander choice, for those who don’t like fire, would make for a more variedmenu.Soon after, small mounds of marinated mushrooms are brought. Prettily surrounded by hearts of palm cut int little spokes, they’re lovely. Surprisingly, the house salad also features mushrooms. Piled on leaf lettuce, the mushrooms are acconi-' oanied by yellow peppers, sweet onions and a vinaigrette dressing.Excellent smoked trout wins over a peppery mixture of langostino and king crab which, to its credit, is held together with just a minimujn amount of mayonnaise.8:40 — We’re beginning to watch the clock and warn our “guide” that we want to be out in two hours. She tells the manager, who says that he’ll speed things up. Delectable slices of salmon arrive at about 8:50 ' They’re small but hot, moist and flavorful. We all agree that the salmon is a better option than the two shrimp and quarter-cppful of lump crabmeat in parsley butter.9:15 — Precisely two hours after our arrival, the beef and veal are served. We ruefully accept our fate and enjoy the fine quality of the meats. Sauteed mushrooms garnish well-prepared little steaks. The veal is nicely trimmed and nicely cooked* A light but chunky tomato sauce enlivens it.9:35 — We’re deciding about the Ms. carrot cake, the Ms. chocolate cake and the peanut butter cake: The crunchy, spicy carrot cake and the great chocolate cake knock the peanut butter cake out of any competition. A pot of freshly brewed decaffeinated coffee is brought afterwards.10:00 — 1 introduce myself to Sam Sardinia. I tell him about short courses, long pauses and that I think dinner could easily hve been served in two hours. The affable Mr. Sardinia agrees that things were too slow, declares that his expectation is for a two-hour dinner and says that he can be quoted. He shortens our bill to a two-hour frame.Thirty-six dollars per person is understandable when taxes, tip, live music and a handsome setting are included with food and plentiful drink. The buffet price of twelve dollars per person, everything included, is even a bargain if you can be in and out in an hour. Yet, most people don't enjoy watching the clock. Please play it again Sam, but a little differently next time.
Newspaper Details
Capital Gazette
Annapolis, Maryland, US
Thu, Jun 30, 1988
Page 23
Full Page
Clipped by
Anonymous
USA 31 Mar 2021
Other Publications Near Annapolis, Maryland
Capital Gazette
Annapolis Maryland Republican And State Capital Advertiser
Annapolis Maryland Republican
Annapolis Capital Gazette
Maryland Gazette
