BooksPage H7■ «■-MM ■mmm..............ll—l I ..... ......The Hwa Yuan Szechuan Inn on East Broadway, left, was one of the pioneers in popularizing spicy Szechuan cuisine Kuang Yo Fong, right,demonstrates traditional Chinese opera at a D’Asia Vu performance at the Asian American Arts Centre. Shopping for fresh vegetables andother ingredients, below, is an important part of Chinese traditions.Photo by Mike Guanem mimmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmnw ■ n••—- • - -la *-...... - ■Photo courtesy N Y Convention Visit Of* BureauPopular ethnicboomingareaBy MIKEQUANETelegraph Correspondentew York's Chinatown has always been that speciallittle corner of Manhattan where you can find an _ authentic restaurant forregional Chinese cuisine, rare ingredients for that unusual recipe, or Ming Dynasty vases not available anywhere this side of the Pacific.But lately, Chinatown has been bursting its boundaries, fueled by an immigration wave of Chinese leaving Hong Kong in advance of the 1997 takeover by the People’s Republic of China, and by refugees from Southeast Asia, many of whom were ethnic Chinese shopkeepers, outcasts after the Communist takeoversBesides the population explosion (which has all but devoured another famous New York ethnic neighborhood, “Little Italy”) there have been a number of other changes, including a flowering of Chinese arts organizations and an upgrading in the decor and spaciousness of many restaurants, as much to serve affluent Chinese American suburbanites asPhoto courtesy N Y Convention Visitor* Bu'«au r PCeSt fit tOUTIStS.To really savor Chinatown, shun the programmed bus tours and group restaurant visits and make your way by subway or cab to Canal Street, formerly the northern border of the area, but now more like the neighborhood's main drag.(in light of the recent demonstrations in Beijing and the supporting protests in the United States, it’s best to be aware of the latest developments before heading to Chinatown or else one is likely to get caught in the spirit and the demonstration. Most recently the pretests have centered around the United Nations building and by the Chinese Embassy near Times Square.)Since most people visit Chinatown for the food, a rundown of some of the better restaurants (among literally hundreds to choose from) is in order. Chinatown’s restaurants can generally be divided into three major classifications• The traditional “hole in the wall” or basement variety, frequented by the local residents and the cognoscenti who prefer food to ambience;•The tourist” restaurant, more visually pleasing and usually having CHINATOWN Page H2