uroacnou 'ana tlio boars beau stared” as the “wassail cup” went rounlt; But if thero is less “wassail” the annual feast known as the Christmas dinner remains an interesting feature in the programme of the day’s celebration.Thero is less novelty in modern Christmas faro than in any other yearly feast except Thanksgiving. The tiino honored mince pie ranks first as standard Christmas dessert, although a real English plum pudding may take its place, when both arc not provided. It is to the Saxons that wo are indebted as the originators of tlio fruity mince pie. The Saxon kings and nobles always liad a pie upon their Christmas tables, sometimes so largo as to fill up tlio width of the board. These wero often used as a means of presenting surprises in the way of gifts that wero. hidden underneath the crust. To such excess was tho minco io carried that Cromwell and his fol-owers looked with horror upon it, and the Scotch and English Presbyterians adopted instead wliat they called plum porridge, and from this plum porridge was gradually evolved tlio English plum pudding, which today stands as tho great rival of the minco pie.In place of tho boar's head and stout sirloin, wo long ago adopted that national bird, tho turkey, which in tho past few years has given way in some households to tho goose.For the housekeeper it i3 an agreeable fact tbat the preparation for tho Clirist-mas dinner can bo mado so long in ad-Fvance. Tho apples for tho minco pics, for instance, many early bo selected for peeling, and the fatted heifer killed forsuet and meat. This relieves tho preparations that under any circumstances will pile up as tho day approaches.dilect from tho round three ixiunds of beefA standard receipt for minco pies: Sc-pit is best not to liavo it fat—and bo:l itin water enough to cover it. Smoked tonguo is a valuablo ingredient to add with less of tlio beef. Chop lino and mix with it threo pounds of suet, four pounds of apples, four pounds stoned raisins, two pounds of currants, one pound of citron, a quarter of a pound each of lemon and orange peel, tho juico of four oranges and four lemons, four pounds of coffee sugar, two grated nutmegs, a teaspoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, cinnamon, maoc, pepper and two tablc-spoonfuls of salt, cider enough to moisten.Tho plum pudding may bo mado ready also in advanco and await tho glorious day. Here is a receipt which caunot bo bettered: fStono a pound of raisins and pour on them a 1 tali' gill of brandy. Lay on them two ounces of citron, and ono each of candied orange and lemon peel sliced, tho grated juico and rind of ono orango and ono lemon, four ounces of blanched almonds, a pound of currants, a pound of suet chopped, a pound of coffee sugar, and tho interior of a baker’s loaf crumbed, mix well with grated nutmeg, a little cayenno and a teaspoonful of salt. Pour over a gill of sherry and set away in a cool place. Just before boiling the pudding add eight eggs and enougli sweet cream to moisten it.This is Miss Corson’s receipt, and sho says. “Now let al] tho young ladies of tho houso descend and in turn vigorously 6tir tho fruity compound for good luck.” Butter tho water tight pudding mold, dust with Hour, and pack tliountil tho pudding is ready to serve. Just beforo using boil again for two hours. Just beforo serving pour over it a glass of brandy or rum, set it on firo and send in blazing. Tho sauco is mado of equal quantities of butter and sugar flavored with rum or brandy.Thero is ono thin wo liavo not all learned, and that is, that heaven has not granted us stomachs according to our wealth. The rich man cannot cat moro than the poor man liecauso he i3 rich. For that reason there is no uso of providing a menu so extensive that even a Christmas day appetito cannot compass it. As wo love on this day old times and old friend’s turkey, cranberries and chicken salad arc not to bo elbowed out of tho way by any new dishes or four and twenty courses. Here is an old fashioned Christmas day dinner.Oyster Soup.Roast Turkey. Oyster Sauce.Mashed Potatoes and Turnips.Boiled Onions.Celery. Cranberry Sauce. Pickles.Roast Spare Ribs. Apple Sauco.Baked Sweet Potatoes.Plum Pudding.Mineo Pics. Pumpkin Ties.Assorted Fruits and Nuts.Confectionery.Coffee.Thero are fow housewives that needany assistance in preparing any of theso good things, so comment is restrained, if a moro elaborate and modern menu i3 required we may offer a word. For example, tho procession of tlio feast will be:Oysters.Portage a la reinc.Fried Smelts, Sauco Tartan.Scolloped Lobster.Roast Turkey, stuffed with Chestnuts.Roast Venison, Currant Jelly.Masked Potatoes. Sweet Potatoes. Sweet Com.Celery. Cranberries. Relishes, Asparagus, White Sauco.Roman Punch.Roast Chicken or Duck, with Lettuce Salad, FrenchDressing.Plum Pudding.Minco Pio. Nemcrodo Pudding.Fruit, Nuts, Bonbons. Salted Almonds.Roquefort Cheese.Block Coffee.Miss Corson suggests nt the Christmas dinner tho old gamo of snap dragon.JlowSomo raisins aro laid on a largo shallow bowl or platter. A tablespoonful of brandy, alcohol, or any spirit is poured over them and lighten; tho snort is to catch a raisin from tho midst of tho flames without burning tho fingers. But don’t, oh, don’t catch your laco niflies a-firo and end tho merry day in pain. ________________Tho Louvro is overrun with American