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THENEW YORK TIMES. HEN HAY. MARCH lo- i»14.WIC.WAM HAT SHOWN BY CAROLINE REBOUX--OTHER NOVELTIESNew Headgear Like Indian Tepee and Makes Americans Feel at Home Hats to be Worn High on Head.Cheruit Features the Full Skirt, Which, It Prophesied, Will Be as Successful as Was the Pannier Skirt.tin* shortest ;There are many: the 1I not take enough time to it She seems j I to imagine that the most fashionable! ahd expensive hat cam be Jammed on ! her hand while she is running down J j th** steps or moving out of the room, j The Paris milliners are impatient with what they call the American . habit and they' have done much to stop it. Whatever they have done in i the past is as nothing to the training they must give now if a woman is to w**ar the hats of the day with any degree of style. They are difficult—1 there is no longer any doubt aboutHereHoux, she of millinery one can see as many American women :is at the Hits, on the Place Vendome. and that is saying much.1 One. can talk casualty there of ones dearest friends in the States, for American names are as well known as in a shop in Fifth Avenue. It is really difficult to keep away from gossip and confine one's attention to hats.It is so easy to discuss the present American Master of Hounds in a certain heavenly spot in England, and hi, attractive wife, with Caroline, who knows his wife well, and has made many hats for her, or to talkadmirable torn bv the Philadelphia d’ife of a famous French banker, who lost his father the day before.mourningid forgets it. But when witf tline when people were not cresting than mere millinery'wigThe first hat shown was a veritable It was easily recognized .mericans. Possibly It was a ieir vanity. The only flaw in was that the name was not i it by the house. It was Americans.the thought ofThe hat itself could only be worn by a woman with style; a quality which is taken for granted by the maker of French hats. There may he women in Paris who do not know how to pose their hats on well-coiffed h*,r. but they keep in the background. Tou cannot even find them boulevards. Certainly they do to Caroline Heboiix or Suzanne Talbot or Georgette or Madelein h.,,,. i and Vi rot are mere namesthing the ParisienneTo begin at the beginning, aa all good fairy stories do—although this tale of fact, not of fiction—the made by Reboux are placed well upon the head. They show all the you have, and. as It is not fash-r, ifempts a wig, then it behooves every ne to coif the locks well and to see iat they are kept in good condition. We have been so accustomed to slapbe hat down on the head and coverny deficiency of hair that th^ new process presages trouble. We are not quite sure that we know how' to wear hats in the new w'ay.All of which has nothing to do with the wigwam hat Here It is in detail. The shape is of straw. One w’ould call it a turban. Arranged around that is a series of tall black ostrich featherg, with their tendrils well separated and their ends meeting at thehat the shape of an Indian tepee.Don’t you remember how you used to build such an affair out of boughs when you were a youngster and creep into it, pretending to slay any one who passed? Well. Caroline Reboux probably pretended that and is sellingThere is no other trimming on the hat. The absence of roses, of ribbon, of tinsel, makes for its distinction. Its price is npt lowered, of course, by any omission of this sort.Lust Spring, Reboux brought out a sailor shape which had a three-cornered crown. The brim was conventional. To-day, she brings out the hat with three points in the crown without a brim. This is better than the other. She makes it in straw, with a facing of another color from the brim. She also advises it fur a mourning hat in crupe, to whieh is attached a short veil of net with a narrow border.Sometimes, she places on these tricornes two wings of material to spread out in the back. Other trimming she does not advise. When the i hat is on the head it has the appear-to deal with. Mine. Clierult Just exactly atskirtthe right line, it well, and her man I it off with skill. Th* ays differed from the upper one In color, but not often in mat* rial. A quantity of Roman striping was used. No house got away from this design. Usually the lower skirt was of the striping and the upper a solid color to match one of the stripes. Dark blue was rampant, and is no doubt that It is to be th* favorite color for the street.There is Roman striping—and Roman striping. Possibly this was so withcareful In the choice of color, and in this Mme. Cheruit showed taste, as was to be expected. One who goes into this new fas ion blind can deck one’s self to look like a Roman holiday. The favored striping has a touch of sulphur yellow, but it must hr toned down by deep blue or dull There are several suits where t Cheruit leaves that color to Premet and Dou cet, both of whom use it very well. She prefers blue In several darkdea.th© colltc-The only gow n shown i tion which could not be worn in its entirety by the class of women whom Cheruit desires to dress is so innocent looking from the back that one isgiven the anaire *»«-v j startled by the front. When thethose she had trained, but they were mannequin turned around in hernot successful, and Mm*. Cheruit had | promenade 6he ffav© one a strongto take up the retus again for t e j raemory cf that comic opera trick «r reputation and the refit- j wj,t,rc tht, Quaker, in turning, becomes llus of the coffers, tiood redone. a balIet lt;unCer.nding In a good re-1 Tho materlttj ia pinfc muslin, the(..... simplicity. The skirt iaorning early, here. Kuthered at the waistband andrunner of the full | edKe(J at -jlo hern with a narrowlace. The bodicenannequlttuluting 1‘remot in old-fashioned ef-Then the mannequin turned we gasped. She wore Turkish era of pink muslin quite full e top and held into the legs be-the knees, and ending In small ruffles of lace. Over these the gath-red skirt was parted. Not ao inno-■ent, after all.Cheruit paid attention to the de parting, but still artistic Russian styles, in a Summer frock that was strikingly like one shown by the house of Doucet. The latter was of chiffon, minus embrotdery. »nd the one by Cheruit was of book muslin— a fabric that is coming Into strong fashion. It was heavily embroidered v/ith flat gold thread, the kind thatut any especial success. .There was a full tunic, not short ut quite long, half covered with the old thread done in a slender design hut kept the gown from looking too oavy for Summer. The lower skirt f musitn, was plain, and thehighafter the modenovelty in Summer apparelEvidently, this is to be one pronounced fashions of the day, fur one sees It on every side. Talbot does it in a more ornate way. but the Idea j j-jere „ the ku is there. It is economical, for It does I „ worn by not require the amount of featheringosprey requires, and for one reason or another the use of these expensive tendrils is very much lessened thissince the restrictions put upon by the American Government, although numidi is not the sar osprey, it looks so much like it t is as well to leave it off and not trouble. But there is notWhen the numidi is plastered he straw and each tendril spread mt to its utmost advantage, itwith the tulle; It floats away in a very pretty fashion. Copied in white lulle with a white gardenia, it is a most desirable thing for a young girl.r.FORCiF.TTE BRINGS OUTlTALlAN PLATEAU HAT Jyears gone. A simple affair. Easy to wear and to make, and utterl; lacking in style. Ret some good angel of dress improve it* lines,In its present stage it has style when cut right and carried well, •enslons of it we had in America .iot satisfactory, or perhaps they were worn by the wrong figures. It is not to carry off two circles of dlf-common with the other houses. Cheruit shows printed crapes. In her gowns for young girls she uses print-* d « ottons and wools and silk that are strikingly like the calico designs of the Houthern mills.For morning wear there are frock? of erpf de chine and of ailk poplin the surface covered with tiny trt angles and spot* or flowers. These are in color on a deep blue or brown or yellow surface. Blue with deep pink or red is a favorite.Mme. Cheruit. on the day of the opening, wore a dark blue frock withdark blue chiffon overwhite and a high bib of blue r * ‘back and front.ferent dimensionswoman with red gold hairand deep gray eyes, and she has j superb way of carrying off herthe shoetope clothes.ARIS, March 5.—Mme. Georgette J so well known likes large hats, just as Carlier 1 The twe 1 always liked small ones. Even , strange —’apart.last Winter, when tne world was ruled by little hats, Georgette intro* duced a wide black affair that startled Paris. In America, where model was sent, they asked each other if it could be true that we would again burden our heads withit was with some interest that Americans went to the opening of this well-known house on the Rue de la Paix. And there were the large hats, hidden, ItMs true, from the gaze of the average buyer and the individual who was n.ot a purchaser known to the head of theso w'ell established.) right here very well together, j gette carry out that opinion, say, and their origin is far . Cne of the smart flat hats that e is a garment borrowed ! Georgette showed us w as of Leg man, and one has always been | horn, but not tip-tilted. It was by women. One demands a eer- ) 8nmewhat conventionally shaped. The tain swagger of carriage, and the j Bities remained where they should be, other a demure coquetry. »and the front shielded the eyes.Neither fashion is for every one j 0r,iy the back flared up in the way Those who choose must be sure that ; tacks have these days, they have one or the other chant* ■ Xone ot these things were so ira-teristic, and get the right garment j portfmt ,*s trimming, whichThese noveltieswhere Georgette herself Hikeswilltell., that one Large brought in under the on of ft worker, Shein buying will the wford. So plateauspacious apron of tiptoed across theenemy sat entrenched, and was greeted with delight in our cause of her manoeuvre, gayety is the. business of pounded In France.The hat. so well hidden* from the * eyes of those who were hungrily j feeding themselves on all that what was new, was an Italian pla1 w’as garlanded with roslt; showed a light blue ribbon tucked I nway In the back. In this style of I hat Lewis is a competitor, for shlt;‘ also shows them, and her marine-i quins wear them in a dashing wav i far to the side, showing the ringlelop of a quilling of brown effect was good and copied for Americans in blush pink tulle beneath a wreath of roses. And W'hy? Because the American not wear a heavy hat, and a wreath of large beads Is heavy.By the way, neither Georgette jnor any of “ “ — -* ****%**.viththemWhen the cape chiffon, any one can carry it off, but j not when Q is made in cloth.The Italian plateau, while very fashionable, Is not intended for the street. Probably it will be worn there later The Americans have a happy way of twisting an idea into practical service. Black or dark blue straw', with velvet or taffeta ribbon to match, ami a fi'W Inconspicuous flewers will make a hat 'that will do very well for Summer outside the busy street of a great city, provided it is not worn restingwreath of large brown beads at the glass hasflooded with it t. of January In America, iently I I |||Die Anglo-Saxon does not can \ is coquetry In a satisfactory n r, and, incidentally, this Is the t with millinery; It is Invented re end these shapes rule the cwoman can really wear them in lb-way they are intended to be worn. We are too self-conscious a race.But the broad, flat Leghorn hat Is here, in the first fashion, made without crown or brim and resting on the head by means of a cunningly placed bandeau.Other liats have bandeaux, too, which is always an important subjectlats lifted off the heThere is much to suggest Italy in ] a 11 the present exhibition of clothes, but jw hie the Neapolitan cape and the wide, flat j cant hat are the most brilliant borrowings j sill a of France from NapOf th, cape much luu. been wrltt^jthc^'c lnlt;l'caUon“Many Anderson WarnerFRANCES BUILDINGFifth Avenueof 53* StreetPresent theirImported and Original Model Gowns, Suits, Coats and BlousesPAQUINde Parishave the pleasure to announce that their entire“Collection d’Art”ofGowns, Wraps Hatsexhibited at the Ritr-Car’ton Hotel has been purchased byB. ALTMAN CO.Thirty-fourth and Thirty-fifth Street* FIFTH AVENUE. NEW YORK
Newspaper Details
New York Times
New York, New York, US
Sun, Mar 15, 1914
Page 57
Full Page
Clipped by
New Y.
NY, USA 15 Sep 2024
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