Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - July 25, 2015, Winnipeg, Manitoba C M Y K PAGE F6
F 6 WINNIPEG FREE PRESS, SATURDAY, JULY 25, 2015 TRAVEL winnipegfreepress. com
N ANTUCKET, Mass. — Forget
crowded Cape Cod and that
other island, Martha’s Vineyard,
frequented every summer by America’s
tourist- in- chief, President Barack
Obama. If you’re looking for unspoiled
ocean vistas and beaches with breathing
room, hop a ferry to Nantucket,
wander the cobblestone streets and
drink in the views and microbrews.
Nantucket tends to get overlooked in
the shadow of the Vineyard, Obama’s
go- to destination for a couple of weeks
most Augusts. Here on Nantucket,
there are no road closures or impromptu
swarms of Secret Service
agents commandeering golf courses
and restaurants — just a little more
space and a lot more charm.
Nantucket means “ faraway land”
in the language of its native tribe, the
Wampanoags, but it’s just 48 kilometres
offshore — an hour’s journey
via high- speed ferry from Cape Cod.
What’s new?
Not much, but that’s part of its allure.
You won’t find as many cars, fast
food outlets, honky- tonk nightclubs
and vanilla chain hotels on tranquil
Nantucket as you will on the Vineyard
or the mainland.
The Nantucket Garden Conservancy
leads guided tours of the island’s
“ secret gardens” — beautifully
manicured lawns, flowers ( especially
the island’s signature blue hydrangeas)
and shrubs on private property that
gardening buffs otherwise wouldn’t
have a chance to enjoy: check www.
gardenconservancy. org for the latest
dates.
The Dreamland Theater, built in
1832 as a Quaker meetinghouse, completed
a renovation in 2012. It screens
films and stage plays and hosts the
Nantucket Comedy Festival, held each
July. Actor Ben Stiller summered here
as a kid and sits on the board of the
Nantucket Film Festival, held each
June.
Classic attractions
Whaling lifted Nantucket to economic
superpower status two centuries
ago, and no visit is complete without
a stop at the downtown Nantucket
Whaling Museum. Suspended from the
vaulted ceiling is the skeleton of a 46-
foot sperm whale that washed ashore
in 1998. Storytellers will regale you
with the tale of the Essex, the doomed
whaling ship that sank in the Pacific in
1820 and inspired Herman Melville’s
Moby- Dick. The museum also boasts
one of the world’s largest collections
of scrimshaw, the elaborate artwork
carved on whale teeth. Full disclosure:
Whaling was bloody business, and the
depictions of how harpoons were used
to cripple and kill these magnificent
creatures are not for the faint of heart.
On foot, you can wander the warren
of streets within walking distance of
the ferry landing — they’re studded
with art galleries, quirky shops, restaurants
and inns. Even better, explore
by moped or bicycle. You can bring
your own bike on the ferry for a small
fee, but there are several rental shops
near the wharf, and it’s just $ 20 to rent
a bike for two hours, including basket
and helmet. For stunning Atlantic
views, follow the Milestone Road bike
path due east to picturesque Siasconset,
the prettiest corner of the island.
Tips
If you’re planning a day trip, time is
of the essence. Unless you’re bringing
a car, don’t waste it on the slow ferries
from Woods Hole or Hyannis, which
take 2 ½ hours to make the crossing.
Consider the high- speed passenger
ferries, which are more expensive but
take just an hour. Either way, during
peak summer months, reservations
are critical.
Like any island, Nantucket can be
pricey, so brace yourself for sticker
shock. Stylish inns such as the historic
Jared Coffin House will cater to all
your creature comforts for upwards
of US$ 300 a night, but more affordable
bed- and- breakfast alternatives
abound. The advantage of a day trip is
you can hop an early- morning ferry,
rent bikes, pack a bottle of wine and
a picnic lunch in your basket, and
explore without worrying about your
wallet.
Cobblestones are murder on the feet,
so wear comfortable shoes, not heels.
And bring a windbreaker; even when
it’s sweltering on the mainland, the
unrelenting sea breeze can make you
wish you had one while dining outside
at dusk.
Hanging out
Ice cream and beer make a hideous
combination, but you won’t want to
leave the island without separately
sampling the best of both.
On Nantucket, that means lining up
outside The Juice Bar on Broad Street
— one of the first shops you’ll encounter
after disembarking the ferry.
Don’t let the name throw you. If the
queue of salivating tourists and locals
doesn’t clue you in, the wafting aroma
of homemade waffle cones will. They
make their own ice cream here, too,
including several vegan flavours.
Thirsty? Take the free shuttle to
Nantucket’s Cisco Brewery and sample
their latest beers. Cisco is best- known
for its Whale’s Tale Pale Ale, but you
never know what kind of stunning
seasonal brews you’ll find on tap. Wine
lovers can sip the latest vintages from
the sister Nantucket Vineyards, or for
something stronger, its Triple Eight
Distillery. Five- star food trucks and
raw bars offer freshly shucked oysters
and local littleneck clams.
— The Associated Press
Proudly owned and successfully operated by the
White Earth Nation. © 2015 White Earth Reservation.
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Visitors stand atop the rocks surrounding Brant Point Lighthouse for a view of Nantucket Harbor on Nantucket island.
Nantucket offers summer visitors whale of a time
TERRY KOLE / AP PHOTO
By William J. Kole
F_ 06_ Jul- 25- 15_ FT_ 01. indd F6 7/ 23/ 15 5: 57: 28 PM