Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - April 8, 2015, Winnipeg, Manitoba C M Y K PAGE C1
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WEDNESDAY, APRIL 8, 2015 C 1
R ICE, the lifeblood of so many nations’
cuisines, is perhaps the most ubiquitous
food in the world. In Asia, where
an estimated 90 per cent of all rice is
consumed, the pillowy grains are part of almost
every meal. In the Caribbean, where the
starch is often mixed with beans, it’s a staple
too. In North America, where people eat a
comparatively modest amount of rice, plenty
is still consumed.
Rice is popular because it’s malleable — it
pairs well with a lot of different kinds of food
— and it’s relatively cheap. But like other
starch- heavy foods, it has one central flaw: it
isn’t that good for you. White rice consumption,
in particular, has been linked to a higher risk
of diabetes. A cup of the grain carries with it
roughly 250 calories, most of which comes in
the form of starch, which turns into sugar, and
often thereafter body fat.
But what if there were a simple way to tweak
rice ever so slightly to make it much healthier?
An undergraduate student and his professor at the University
of Sri Lanka have been tinkering with a new way
to cook rice that can reduce its calories by as much as 50
per cent and even offer a few other added health benefits.
The ingenious method, which at its core is just a simple
manipulation of chemistry, involves only a couple easy
steps in practice.
“ What we did is cook the rice as you normally do, but
when the water is boiling, before adding the raw rice, we
added coconut oil — about three per cent of the weight of
the rice you’re going to cook,” said Sudhair James, who
presented his preliminary research at National Meeting
& Exposition of the American Chemical Society ( ACS) in
March. “ After it was ready, we let it cool in the refrigerator
for about 12 hours. That’s it.”
How does it work?
To understand what’s going on, you need to understand
a bit of food chemistry.
Not all starches, as it happens, are created equal. Some,
known as digestible starches, take only a little time to
digest, are quickly turned into glucose, and then later
glycogen. Excess glycogen ends up adding to the size of
our guts if we don’t expend enough energy to burn it off.
Other starches, meanwhile, called resistant starches, take
a long time to for the body to process, aren’t converted
into glucose or glycogen because we lack the ability to
digest them, and add up to fewer calories.
A growing body of research, however, has shown that
it might be possible to change the types of starches found
in foods by modifying how they are prepared. At the very
least, we know that there are observable changes when
certain foods are cooked different ways.
Potatoes, for instance, go from having the right kind of
starch to the less healthful kind when they are cooked or
mashed ( sigh, I know). The process of heating and cooling
certain vegetables, like peas and sweet potatoes, can also
alter the amount of resistant ( good) starches, according to
a 2009 study.
And rice, depending on the method of preparation,
undergoes observable chemical changes. Most notably,
fried rice and pilaf- style rice have a greater proportion
of resistant starch than the most commonly eaten type,
steamed rice, as strange as that might seem.
“ If you can reduce the digestible starch in something
like steamed rice, you can reduce the calories,” said
Pushparajah Thavarajva, a professor at the University of
Sri Lanka who is supervising the research. “ The impact
could be huge.”
Understanding this, James and Thavarajva tested eight
different recipes on 38 different kinds of rice found in Sri
Lanka. What they found is that by adding a lipid ( coconut
oil in this case, because it’s widely used in Sri Lanka)
ahead of cooking the rice, and then cooling the rice immediately
after it was done, they were able to drastically
change its composition — and for the better.
“ The oil interacts with the starch in rice and changes
its architecture,” said James. “ Chilling the rice then helps
foster the conversion of starches. The result is a healthier
serving, even when you heat it back up.”
The prospect of less caloric rice is a big deal. Obesity
rates are rising around the world, particularly in the
developing world, where people rely more heavily on
cheaper food staples. China and India, which are already
seeing rising obesity problems, are huge consumers of
rice. Rice, of course, is not the sole cause of weight gain.
But reducing the amount of calories in a cup of rice by
even as little as 10 per cent could have an enormous impact
for future generations.
“ Obesity has been a problem in the United States
for some time,” said Thavarajva. “ But it’s becoming a
problem in Asia, too. People are eating larger and larger
portions of rice, which isn’t good.”
A world where commercially sold rice comes precooked
and with much fewer calories might not be that
far off. People should already be able to replicate the
process at home, although James warns the results might
vary depending on the type of rice used. And there’s good
reason to believe the chemistry could be applied to many
other popular but less- than- healthy foods.
“ It’s about more than rice,” said Thavarajva. “ I mean,
can we do the same thing for bread? That’s the real question
here.”
— Washington Post
Cooking method that alters By Roberto A. Ferdman
the starch in popular grain
can make it better for you
Nicer
rice
CAROLYN KASTER / THE CANADIAN PRESS
MAREK ULIASZ / TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE
Adding a lipid, such as coconut oil ( above), changes the composition of rice.
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