Winnipeg Free Press Newspaper Archives Apr 1 2015, Page 21

Winnipeg Free Press (Newspaper) - April 1, 2015, Winnipeg, Manitoba C M Y K PAGE C3 winnipegfreepress. com FOOD WINNIPEG FREE PRESS, WEDNESDAY, APRIL 1, 2015 C 3 BIG HITS & REAL CLASSIC ROCK Green Fish Cakes with Paprika Aioli 700 g ( 1 ½ lb) mild white fish fillets without bones, cut into cubes 1 medium onion, roughly chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped About 60 ml ( ¼ cup) fresh parsley About 60 ml ( ¼ cup) fresh cilantro 2.5 cm ( 1 in) piece ginger root, peeled and roughly chopped 7 ml ( 1 ½ tsp) ground cumin ( see notes) 5 ml ( 1 tsp) coarse kosher salt 2 ml ( ½ tsp) freshly ground black pepper 1 egg 45- 60 ml ( 3- 4 tbsp) matzo meal Olive oil, for frying Paprika aioli: 175 ml ( ¾ cup) good- quality mayonnaise 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) lemon juice 3 cloves garlic, minced 20 ml ( 4 tsp) tomato paste 3- 5 ml ( ¾ - 1 tsp) smoked Spanish paprika ( see notes) In food processor, coarsely grind fish. Remove fish to large bowl. Add to food processor ( there’s no need to clean it) the onion, garlic, parsley, cilantro and ginger and pulse until ingredients form a very coarse green paste. Add cumin, salt and pepper and pulse just to mix. Add herb mixture to fish and stir until combined. Stir in egg and enough matzo meal for a good consistency. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and, using a generous 15 ml ( 1 tbsp) for each patty, form mixture into small fish cakes, about 4 cm ( 1 ½ inches) in diameter and 1.2 cm ( ½ inch) high. Prepare aioli: In small bowl, combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, garlic, tomato paste and paprika. Set aside. In large sauté pan over medium heat, add about 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) olive oil and fry fish cakes in batches, adding more oil as needed, until lightly brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Serve fish cakes with aioli. Serves 8- 10. Tester’s notes: I used a mix of pickerel and sole for these fish cakes, but you can use haddock or cod or whatever mild, white kosher fish looks good at the store. Some households avoid ground spices during the holiday unless certified kosher for Passover, and you can always make the fish cakes without cumin. You can also leave out the paprika in the aioli, or serve the fish with old- school beet horseradish. I usually fry these fish cakes quickly while dinner is going on, because they are so tasty right out of the pan. With a large skillet, it’s only a few batches taking a few minutes each. But if this isn’t feasible — or if you’re doubling the recipe for a crowd — you can make and fry the cakes ahead, store in the fridge on a baking sheet covered with foil, and then reheat uncovered in a 175 C ( 350 F) oven for about 10 minutes. This makes about 32 small cakes. I tend to start with three per person, but it’s nice to have some on hand for seconds. Cauliflower ‘ Kugel’ 1.8 l ( 8 cups) cauliflower florets ( from about 1 large head cauliflower) 60 ml ( 4 tbsp) olive oil, divided 3 leeks ( white and pale green parts only), well cleaned and chopped 90 ml ( 6 tbsp) matzo meal 3 eggs 125 ml ( ½ cup) finely chopped fresh Italian parsley, divided 125 ml ( ½ cup) finely chopped fresh dill, divided 6 ml ( 1 ¼ tsp) salt 3 ml ( ¾ tsp) freshly ground black pepper 125 ml ( ½ cup) slivered blanched almonds, toasted and chopped Preheat oven to 175C ( 350F). Brush a 28x18 cm ( 11x7 in) glass or ceramic baking dish with oil. In large pot of boiling salted water, cook cauliflower until tender- crisp, about 5- 8 minutes. Drain and then mash coarsely — you want to end up with some mash and some small cauliflower chunks. Place in large bowl. In large heavy frying pan over medium heat, add 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) oil and sauté leeks until tender and just starting to colour, about 5 minutes. Add leeks to cauliflower mixture. Stir in matzo meal. In small bowl, mix together eggs, 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) parsley, 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) dill, salt and pepper. Add to cauliflower- leek mixture. Spread cauliflower- leek mixture into prepared baking dish. In small bowl, combine remaining 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) oil with almonds and remaining herbs. Sprinkle over kugel and bake until set in centre and beginning to brown on top, about 30- 35 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serves 8. Tester’s notes: This dish can be prepared up to the point of baking about 8 hours ahead and then covered and refrigerated. Remove from fridge about 15 minutes before baking to take the chill off and then cook as directed. alison. gillmor@ freepress. mb. ca Passover Continued from C 1 Shaved Asparagus Salad Shaving the asparagus is a labour of love. Start the day before and enlist others to help with the shaving. Do not dress it in advance as the shavings will get limp and lose volume. Finely grated zest of one lemon 45 ml ( 3 tbsp) freshly squeezed lemon juice 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) minced shallot 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 90 ml ( 6 tbsp) extra- virgin olive oil 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) minced, oil packed, sundried tomatoes 1.5 kg ( 3 lbs) thick asparagus spears, untrimmed 300 ml ( 1 ¼ cups) or 45 g ( 1 ½ oz) shaved Parmesan cheese 90 ml ( 6 tbsp) pine nuts, lightly toasted 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves Combine the lemon zest, lemon juice, shallot, salt and pepper to taste. Beat in the olive oil and add the sun- dried tomatoes. Cover and refrigerate for up to four days. Hold the asparagus by the woody end and shave it using a swivel- headed vegetable peeler. Start above the woody section. Press gently but firmly. Not every piece will be perfect, and that’s all right. Spread the asparagus shavings out on a kitchen towel or paper towels, roll up and place in a plastic bag. Just before serving, toss with the dressing. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Mound on a platter and garnish with the pine nuts, Parmesan and basil. Makes 8 servings. W E’VE been on a tea- related kick recently at Recipe Swap, and this week we look at tea sandwiches, a beloved tradition in Winnipeg, where they are often called party sandwiches. A key ingredient in many party sandwiches is good mayonnaise. Thanks to Courtney Worden , who kindly sent in a recipe for homemade mayonnaise from a 1951 Winnipeg Free Press clipping that was recently found in an attic. I’ve put in the recipe as is, adding some modern advice in the notes. I’ve also added a recipe for egg and olive sandwich fingers. I’d be keen to see recipes for some of your favourites. If you can help with a recipe request, have your own request, or a favourite recipe you’d like to share, send an email to recipeswap@ freepress. mb. ca, fax it to 204- 697- 7412, or write to Recipe Swap, c/ o Alison Gillmor, Winnipeg Free Press, 1355 Mountain Ave., Winnipeg, MB, R2X 3B6. Please include your first and last name, address and telephone number. Egg and Olive Sandwich Fingers 4 eggs, hard- boiled, peeled and chopped fine 45- 60 ml ( 3- 4 tbsp) mayonnaise 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) finely chopped green olives Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 slices bread, lightly buttered In a medium bowl, combine eggs, mayonnaise and olives. Add pepper to taste. Spread mixture on 4 slices of buttered bread and top with remaining 4 slices. Cut off crusts and then cut sandwiches diagonally into triangles or lengthwise into fingers. Tester’s notes: I make hard- boiled eggs by placing eggs in a pot of cold water, bringing to a full boil, and then turning off the heat and leaving the eggs, covered, for 12 minutes. This avoids overcooking, which can result in eggs that are tough and have grey lines around the yolks. I usually chop ingredients for tea sandwiches more finely than I would for a big, tough sandwich, in order to avoid lumps and make cutting easier. And here’s a useful tip: I once had to make dozens of party sandwiches at one time, and my good friend Anne informed me that some local grocery- store bakeries will slice basic white and brown loaves “ party- sandwich- style” — that is, horizontally — which makes spreading, assembling and cutting much easier. One thing with tea sandwiches: They do dry out quickly, so if they are not being served right away, they should be parcelled up in plastic wrap or covered with a clean, slightly damp tea towel. Homemade Mayonnaise from the 1951 Winnipeg Free Press 2 eggs, slightly beaten 2 ml ( ½ tsp) mustard 5 ml ( 1 tsp) salt 500 ml ( 2 cups) salad oil ( see notes) 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) lemon juice or vinegar Add the mustard and the salt to the slightly beaten eggs. Start beating with a Dover egg beater ( see notes), adding a little oil at a time, and continue beating and adding oil until the mixture is quite thick. Now add the lemon juice or vinegar. Sometimes when making this, you may find it will separate during the beating. If this happens, start all over again with fresh materials, that is, eggs, seasoning and oil, and when this starts to thicken, gradually beat in the separated mayonnaise. Tester’s notes: This 1950s recipe results in a mayonnaise that has a lovely pale yellow colour and fresh taste but is not quite as thick as store- bought mayo. This is a whole- egg mayo, which is less common than yolk- only versions and slightly less rich. Here are a few tips for successful mayo: Have all the ingredients at room temperature. Avoid making mayonnaise in a hot, humid kitchen, which can result in a heavy, greasy result. Use a very clean glass or ceramic bowl. The “ salad oil” could be a neutral oil like safflower or corn. Though many modern cooks like to use olive oil in recipes, it can be a bit edgy in mayo. Some cooks mix about four parts regular vegetable oil to one part olive oil. I used Dijon mustard and fresh lemon juice for flavouring. If choosing vinegar, use white wine vinegar for a subtle taste. A “ Dover egg beater” is one of those handcranked non- electric beaters. I haven’t owned one for a while, so I decided to go old- school and use a whisk. In order to avoid the mayo separating, you have to add the oil very, very slowly while whisking all the time. I added 5 ml ( 1 tsp) at a time for the first one- third of the oil, until I got a good emulsion, and then poured the rest in a very thin, very slow stream. This ended up being about 12 minutes of hand- beating. I was beginning to feel a bit like poor downtrodden Daisy on Downton Abbey, but I was also absolutely thrilled that the mixture didn’t split. An important note: Homemade mayo contains raw eggs, which are not recommended for pregnant women, infants, the elderly, or anyone with a compromised immune system. Homemade mayo also has nothing like the fridge life of commercial versions, so you need to use it within five days. If this recipe makes more than you need for five days, you can cut it in half. Easter Continued from C 1 Roasted Squash and Apple Salad with Blood Orange Dressing 1.5 kg ( 3 lbs) butternut squash 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) extra- virgin olive oil, divided 5 ml ( 1 tsp) sea salt, divided 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) freshly grated nutmeg, divided 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) freshly ground black pepper, divided 180 ml ( ¾ cup) blood orange juice, from five to six blood oranges, strained to remove the pulp 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) cider vinegar 30 ml ( 2 tbsp) minced shallots 125 ml ( ½ cup) mayonnaise 250 g ( 8 oz) arugula or baby spinach, washed and dried 250 ml ( 1 cup) celery, thinly sliced on the diagonal into 2.5- cm ( 1- inch) long slices 2 tasty apples, such as Ambrosia, Gala or Fuji, cored and cut into 1.25- cm ( ½ - inch) cubes 125 ml ( ½ cup) walnut halves and pieces, roasted One day in advance, peel the squash, cut in half and remove the seeds. Cut the squash into 2.5- cm ( 1- inch) cubes. Divide evenly among two rimmed, foil- lined baking sheets and toss each with 15 ml ( 1 tbsp) olive oil, 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) salt, 1 ml ( ¼ tsp) nutmeg and 1 ml ( ¼ tsp) pepper. Heat the oven to 220 C ( 425 F) and roast the squash for 15 minutes. Turn the pieces over and roast for 15 minutes longer until tender. Remove from the oven and cool. Transfer to a storage container, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. While the squash is roasting, combine the orange juice, vinegar and shallots in a small pot and bring to a boil over medium- high heat. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, or until the mixture is reduced to about 60 ml ( ¼ cup). Let cool. Whisk in the honey, mayonnaise, 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) salt, and 2.5 ml ( ½ tsp) of pepper. Transfer to a storage container and refrigerate. Can be made up to 4 days in advance. To serve: Scatter the arugula or spinach on a large platter. Drizzle with a little of the dressing. Scatter with the squash and drizzle with more dressing. Scatter with the celery, apples and walnuts. Serve the remaining dressing on the side. Makes 8 servings. — Postmedia News 2015 Inc. RECIPE SWAP ALISON GILLMOR Take party sandwiches up a notch Before the crusts come off, add dollop of homemade mayo GRETCHEN MCKAY/ PITTSBURGH POST- GAZETTE/ TNS Homemade whole- egg mayonnaise is less rich than store- bought varieties. PHOTO BY KAREN BARNABY Roasted Squash and Apple Salad with Blood Orange Dressing C_ 03_ Apr- 01- 15_ FP_ 01. indd C3 3/ 31/ 15 6: 52: 15 PM