Lethbridge Herald, The (Newspaper) - January 27, 1920, Lethbridge, Alberta
By Mme. Frances Tkt Famous Creator Fashions 'T'HERE'S a new war on! Hostilities are I being waged between the moderately short skirt advocated by American designers and the excessively abbreviated frocks insisted upon by the French couturiers. The. short skirt reaching barely below the knees no a do-its appearance in Paris last year and many stories camo across to "s concerning tie display of silken hosiery observed at (he lead- ing French hotels where the fashionable Paris- iennea gather for luncheon, tea arid evening parties. This fashion of displaying French calves with a frankness that outfrankcd even the French was not confined to bizarre extremists, bat was adopted by the upper classes, the de- scendants of the old regime who still constitute aristocracy of France that dwells in the neighborhood of SL Germain, When the races et Auteullle and LongChamps corroborated the evidence that the short skirt wu an established fact, American designers hesi- tated and waited to hear the death knell of this faahkn rfbrate across the Atlantic. Instead of dying yoong it continued to grow in favor. The abort ekirt on this side of the ocean, vhkh Into prominence several year: ago Which Side of the Atlant Shall Win in the Great Controversy as to Right Length of Skirts? France Still Adheres to the One "Just Bel the Knee to the French fashion and continue to advo- cate the long or moderately long skirt. Few women have, sufficiently well-shaped less and ankles to display them in this manner. That- is the aesihctic argument against the short skirt. Into the moral question 1 en- ter not. The .American woman of good taste is capable judging that for herself. You all know how many actually bow- legged women the short skirt has brought to notice. The woman with such unfortu- nate physical defects should certainly avoid the short skirt. The older woman who has put on weight looks her worst' in short skirts. Youth should possess attractive, fiend er ankles, yet many young girls show a thickness in their ankles which is far from symmetrically lovely, and very unattractive in short skirt. Thi well modelled phy- sique of the American wom- an is similar to the Greek ideal. It shows a gradual increase in the fulness of the leg beginning at the ankle Evening Gown of Brocade in Geranium Pink and Gold. Gown of Gray Charmeusc, Sleeves of Gray Chiffon, with Bands of 'Belt of Lemon and Orange. Gomel Jade Greco Chiffon with Loops; Green Beads, then a certain theatrical manager dressed his far-famed beauty chorus In the short-long skirts reaching eight or ten Inches from the floor, had carried to such vulgar excess by many Fomcn lacking both in artistic taste and good that nn attempt to feature tlio long rracefol afternoon gown was made with largo nensure of season I made my street and afternoon quite long. This year 1 concede nothing and rounding into the calf. The French woman possesses a higher placed caif. Her legs more like those of the professional dancer "which show the biceps muscle rising more abruptly from the long slcndcrncss of the ankle. The thinness of French legs makes the women of that country more adapted to wear the excessively short skirt than her American sister, For these various reasons I am not making my gowns too short. My street dresses and tailored suits are eight inches from the floor and my afternoon gowns nro this length and longer, depending upon the. line of the drapery. Some arc even floor length which gives charming grace to the full-figured woman. Long draperies of black charmeuse satin, meteor or velvet take off pounds and pounds from the effect of the stout figure. How I wish every womnn would realize this! Dance frocks of net and other sheer materials designed for debutantes and the younger matrons arc about eight inches from the floor'and they may be even a trilic shorter. The draped bro- cades and velvets arc invariably much mora graceful when given a long sweep of line that accents the height. Crepe chiffon also lends ifscif more effectively to long graceful drapc-ry. Before ndopting the short skirt n woman should remember that what may appear chic in Paris, a city of extremists in style, may look Gown of Crepe Meteor, ivith Vest of Silver Lace and Mpusseline de Soie and Band of Violet and Hyacinth. also becoming to the slender build. The skirt is draped in beautiful lines that cross in front and produce the cfTcct of a bias tunic in the back. The kimono blouse is cut with short sleeves and the opening in the front is filled in with a surplice of silver laco, and flesh chiffon that shows a de- lightful smack of color in "binds" or folds of red violet and hyacinth blue taffeta. The. girdle of, black cliarmcusc displays a new aash treatment that appears to be a continuation of tho lines of the skirt drapery. These sash ends emerge froy. the side front and nro carried toward the back where they arc thrown one over the other below the waistline. Worn with a broad black velvet hat trimmed with graceful sweeps ol black paradise this gown is an expression of grace nnd gives to almost any woman a distinguished silhouette. Would you choose a skirt a few inches below your knees in preference to the long lines of this model? The evening gown of geranium and silver brocade casts another vote for the .long skirt. gown is apparent unsupported over the shoulders 'except liy unusual straps, appar- ently oblivions (heir object in life. In vealily two straps of tatin follow tho lines of tho brocade straps and arc attached to the back of the gown on eithcv side of the centre back. The gown of gray chnrmeuse satin combined with gray chiffon falls in Greek-like linos whicr, in the perfection of (heir drapery, cry out against the short skirt. The front'of this is interesting and, shows a to (lie figure. It runs crosswise and fastens down one side where it continues into the bias the skirt drapery. The one-piece cffect'ot this gown is broken by the belt that defines the waistline on one side and disappears under the. bound but- tonhole to as to leave the side closing in one con- tinuous line. Gray chiffon folds aro an inter- esting trimming on this gown. In another evening gown tlmt argues for the long Bkirt j.idc-greon chiffon pleads eloquently and is ably aided by its unusual trimming, pen- dants of smnll jnde-grccn beads strung on a thread. Theso pendants dangle and reflect the light as the wearer moves about. This gown is also classic, the round neck and fiat bodice being directly Greek. A girdle of sil- ver ribbon ties at the side and its long ends arc weighted with silver tassels. An interesting over drapery falls in a beautifully curved line that runs from the right shouldci' to the left hip. A similar line is described across the back in continuation of this scarf-like overdress. ridiculous in y small American city, Even things that arc, moderately striking on Filth avenue or Broadway, where the eye grows accustomed to clothes that arc startling and "near freakish, may look quite absurd on the main street oE a less cosmopolilan city than New York, On this page are illustrated a variety ot gowns that show the grace of tho moderately long skirt. They arc offered ns an argument, against the adoption of the exaggerated skirt by the woman who values the effect of; the "tout en- semble" as opposed to the usthirikmg woman who wants to be in style at any price, even unto sacrificing the grace of her figure. Many figures appear quite charming In the longer lines which would bo displayed to a disadvantage, in 'H ex- cessively short skirt. The gown of black crepe meteor gives slcnnei ness and grace to the full-figured woman and Is Service, 101V. The Fashion Forecast All skirls show concession to the bouffant silhouette in side drapery. Cascades of lace, draped scarfs of chiffon and knife- pleated panniers of charmeuse or meteor arc effective methods of distending the hij> line without sacrificing the symmetrical model- ing of the figure. West Forty-SlJlb St., New York.