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Lethbridge Herald Newspaper Archives

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Lethbridge Herald, The (Newspaper) - January 12, 1920, Lethbridge, Alberta llfyn of Black Silk Net wilh Jet and Y m: t a Two Extremes of Dress- Either "Slinky" or Grotesquely Wide, with Black in the Lead Among Colors. By Mme. Frances The Famous Creator of Fashions IN the winter's mode there is no middle ground. Skirts arc cither wide to the point of grotesque- if your taste is not for the Valasqucz silhouette, "slinkily" narrow with drapery that frankly outlines the figure. all the lovely colors of the rainbow and many others besides to choose from, but black is in- sistently in the lead. The draped hip line makes its appearance in dis- tended skirts sheer chif- Bouffant Skirt of Black Tutie with Bands of Emerald Green Satin. Black Chiffon Trimmed wilh Monkey Fur and Black Chenille. Three-Piece Costume of Blue Duvetyne and Gray vharmetise. fon and tulle; in generous sids draperies developed from old-fash- ioned silks, such as gros de Londres, peau do cygne and even softly sup- ple faille arid bengaline. Taffeta is back in fashion with a furor. The black taffeta dinner gown is the darling of the French woman. Depending more on line than trimming for success, these taffeta evening gowns arc very dis- tingue, and arc being taken up by Americans with enthusiasm. The drop shoulder of the mid- Victorian era has returned with the full skirt and displays lovely shoul- ders even more picturesquely than the next-to-nothing shoulder straps to which moderns have grown accustomed. Wide skirls and drop shoulders call for the "pinched" waist line and even the corsoticres arc.bending low before the new sil- houette and we hear less of the straight youthful figure nml more of the small wnisl beloved by our mothers and grandmothers. Femin- ism is rampant in fashion, particu- larly in evening nnd afternoon mod. though man-tailored sports clothes and suits continue to bo sought for street wear. Bugles are extensively used on gowns of net nnd charmcusc satin, and all black or hlack relieved with blue, or a dull brick red have been sent over by Paris in great profu- sion for evening wear. The shado of blue most used is a soft French or Jcffrc blue. Wo used to call it "Alico" when Mrs. l.ongvrorth reigned in the Whito House as the daughter of our beloved Hoosevolt. Draperies of soft tulle are set on cither side of charmeuEC skirls that are mounted on pilletto, dccollctcs with effective rcsulls. A charming shade of electric blue that gives the effect of moonlight on water is combined with black pail- lettes and embroidery in many of the most sumpt- uous hlack gowns. One dress shows wreaths of blue, red and yellow flowers laid beneath black tulle. The effect of the, colors through the softly veiling net is very charming. Monkey fur, whose fringe-like qualities makes, it particularly adaptable for trimming tunics, fleevos, etc., is being extensively featured both en gowns nnd wraps. When used as a deep bor- der, the fur is sewed in broad strips and set in upright lines so that the hairs fall over like the feathers (if n fan or the fronds of a fern. When used in this way the of monkey fur, to which so many persons object, is completely lost and the pelts take on a depth and softness undreamed of in their use as fringe. The Spanish silhouette thai displays the wide skirt to a picturesque advantage is attractively exploited in the gown of black tulle which carries EO many variations that I must explain it in detail. First there is a black charmcusc satin sheath; these sheaths arc draped a bit bclon the knees in the back and as to give an impression of great narrowness around the .inkles. Over this sheath is laid a straight petticoat and camisole of black tulle striped with dark blue paillettes. This spangled material fits snugly and the skirt is straight and narrow. Over this falls a ?kirt of wide tulle cut in point, bound with emerald green charmcuso. Narrow folds or "binds" of emerald charmcuse arc run in parallel lines around the hips and cover the horsehair braiding set on the underside to distend the skirt at the sides only. The back and front fall more flatly to the figure. The bodice i.i completed with kimono sleeves of lullc that extend over the black and blue car.ii- sole in a deep V line. At tho centre front is bouquet of flowers made of silver and blue sequins. The girdle is lemon, orange nnd jade green, the three colors being run parallel around the waistline. The antithesis of this gown is fou.id in the closely nttir.g black1 net skirt, whose bugle trim- ming weights it sufficiently to make it He smooth- ly around; the body. There is a sheath of black charmctise va sans this is a of black r.et that reaches a few inches below thc-sheath and gives a filmy trans- parent effect around the ankles. robe of net heavily festooned with several of bugles and elaborately embroidered in jet pail- lettes hangs over this and reaches a few inches above the net drop skirt. A, fichu of net em- broidered In bugles and paillettes favors the right shoulder and describes a becoming dccollcltc that is very new, A gleam of flesh-colored net ap- pears beneath the left arm where the decollctagc is supported by n shoulder strap of black jet. The girdle is solidly embroidered with jet pail- lettes. A picturesque afternoon model, also black, features chenille embroidery and monkey fur. The gown is black chiffon made over black char- meusc satin. Two lines of chenille form a spiral embroidery on the blouse. A row of chenille marks tho long shoulder line and centres tho monkey, fur on the sleeves and tunic, which is really a series of panels cut. in various lengths that give an irregular rectangular.finish softened by the monkey fringe. Parallel lines of chenille run across the tunic. The girdle is black velvet ribbon. Tho round neck lino fringed with monkey fur is extremely becoming. To vary the black gowns on this page I have illustrated a three-piece suit of navy blue duve- tync combined with gray eharmeuse and featur- ing an interesting trimming of black and silver brocade. The gown runs to the "straight and you see, and docs not choose the "prim- rose path" bouffant waywardness. It does, however, have its upper part of gray eharmeuse and tho skirt is blue duvetyne. The neck is so pimple and so becoming that it is worthy cf. men- tion. The round line extends beyond the centre front and makes a bias closing which is accented by a row of self-covered buttons. This entire neck line is bound with black and silver brocade. The'straight line is broken at the waist by a scries of bound buttonholes, four back and four front, cut to .narrow at the lower point. Through these runs a narrow sash of black and silver bro- cade which may be plain or may be weighted with tarnished silver.tassels. coat is made of blue duvetyne and when worn with the dress gives tho impression of two-piece suit, until it is thrown open to displav the gray long-waisted bodice. The.collar stands up or it may be worn turned down. Its inner side and inner line of the long front is trimmed with