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Lethbridge Herald Newspaper Archives

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Lethbridge Daily Herald, The (Newspaper) - April 8, 1911, Lethbridge, Alberta THE LETIIJUUDGE DAILY ilEllALD Saturday, 8, the long coat is bound to bo By Rene Mansfield HE future historian of modes may be somewhat put to it to coin a classic, general term for the fashions now vogne. The style mak- ers themselves this season would seem to have shifted this responsibility onto posterity's fashion mongers. They have given ns revivals of the dress the Directoire period, of the days of the Empire, and of the Middle Ages, and ;i captations of the Russian garb and the peasant costume and the Greek effects, but they quite neglected to supply pi for present-day styles. It Is perhaps because they are a rather bewildering combination of ideas adopted from so many sources that it is impossible to iay one' finger ou any dominant char- acteristic suggestive of other times and peoples. So it is possible that we nre :ln the mfttst of an epoch all our own in dross, whirh, who knows, may some time bo referred to as that of the Aero .Age, perhaps. If v.-e hear little about style we bear great deal about the silhouette. Tn shadow we cast, these days, la more important than the costume that casts it That is to say. it I? the lines of a garment that determine Its fashion- cbleness, and these HUPS must be nar- row, straight, s'.ecdtr, dose. In the iruits this is produced by making straight 'earns from the shonidpr to the bottom of the coat without defining the waistline. This Is accentuate" further by ;he narrow cut of the shoulders and the snug fitting hips, tmg the so closely ns to a part of It The skins, though the tight bnrdinp about trie bottom has been entirely abandoned, are very nar- row and straight measuring not than 2% yards about the bottom. The short coat Is the inches the tailors have been snipping off our cent tnU3, until not a particle longer then twenty-six Inches may we wear our suit coat's and con- orm withotit exactly following the; urves. The snug hip and bust and he narrow shoaWer, with only the waist line undefined, aids In the ac- complishments of this result in these even-eighths fitting: garments. Some- times the waist line fs made quite a bit higher than usnnl. either by means of the cut itself, or through some sort of trimming. The full length coat sleeves are used exclusively on the tailored models, mounted with n plain head. In the more dressy styles of the three-piece costume the kimona fleeve cut in one with the body of the coat is most frequently used. Every possible variety of the sailor collar is to be found on the smart Ftrret suits. This form of collar I- particularly adapted to the narrow styles that prevail, giving a certain er- pression and balance to the figure that it would otherwise lack. Showing the prevalence of the new point motif that Is noticeable in all the latest designs is the collar with great double points in the back, and sometimes a couple of points In front Other new forms are shallow at the back, broad the i wcmrteds are also greatly in demand. as well as silver-grey mannish, looking suitings and rough effects in Scotch mixtures. Satin, in black or blue amounts almost to a craze, in its use for the dressier suits. Moire is also gaining favor. One stunning model la black moire was made ia the new blouse effect with ti slightly raised belt and tight-fitting peplum. The trimming consisted of beavy silk frogs and large Irish lace sailor collar. Blue Is obliged to share honors with black and white combinations for first place in the spring color curriculum. Black and white checks and stripes are with a touch f-t color introduced into the collar of the suit, or into the trim- ming, of the waist when the lighter weight black and white fabric is used for :i frock. Cerise is especially strik- ing when used in this way. Quite as dashing is the use of black broadcloth or satin- for the wide cuffs, pocket daps, and buttons outlining tin side panels of the skirt, on these black and white suits. Navy blue, old blue a.nd king's bine nre the most desirable shades in the heavier suitings. Nest in popularity .nre tan, snuff, brown, leaf green, violet nnd silver grey. Although the tailored and semi-tail- very prominent and nre oftenesr seenlored suits will ne worn to a greater fashioned in the straight line effects, made up in serges for the utility gnr- ir.ent and In silk or satin for the dressier models, is easily in the lead, although before the end of the season it is expected that the tendency to shorten the suit coats will make itself felt in the odd coats nlso. Particularly clever nre the white serge coats, with the black hairline stripe. One of these cut with the popular raglau sleeve and having a bioad belt high across the back, to give a certain Empire effect had .1 large, black satin lined hood col- lar and was trimmed with large metal huttons on the cuffs and collar. For early spring v.-par there Is noth- ing equal to the simple little foulard gown. These are being shown made up with band trimmings of plnin satin, or more elaborately veiled with mar- quisettes or voiles. The new features of the simpler frocks may be summed up as. the shortened waist line, long shoulder effects acquired- by collars, fichus, or the clever application of trimmings, snd the -nse of the long .in many new forms. i The surplice and the fichu style for the waistr is carried out in every sort of gown, from the plain linen or em- broidered one to the veiled evening ;own. The point of creasing, In either case. Is arranged well toward the belt which allows an opportunity for con- siderable elaboration la front trim- ming. Trimming bands are heing ap- plied tn various pointed effects, since the point is the keynote of nil trim- ming motifs this season. Many of the newest models in lin- gerie gowns as well ns in the evening costumes are trimmed In a manner to suggest the bolero, which is gaining so rapidly in favor again. On the dressy gowns fringe is sometimes used to fin- ish the edge of the trimming, while on the simple models hand embroid- ery and ber.d work are used to supple- ment the bolero of lace Insertion. A novel feature of a few of the lat- est lingerie Is the use nf the Mack tunic of cotton net, or the In- troduction of several rows of black lace Into the skirt. A striking gown of embroidery and val lace ind two rows of black; Cbontllly aborat four inches wide set In about the bottom of the skirt A tunic of black net covering the lower part of the waist and the upper part of the skirt was edged with, tiny blackballs, and a black satin belt completed the chic effect Another gown in which this Idea was charmingly used WSB of white lace over a pink slip. A wide flounce of black net onto which was applied a of eiubrOluery, in white, fell from beneath the overdress of lace, which thus simulated a tunic. The edge of this wrts also trimmed with the ball fringe, in white. A touch of 'color is seen on most of these lingerie models, with a very ap- parent preference for the bit of black. Much Ingenuity is exercised In cater- ing to this foible of fashion, and de- lightfully unique Is the result many tiiaes. Just the right character was given to a baby Irish lace robe by the Inch-wide blnck velvet ribbon caught beneath the scallops of the lest row of lace abont the bottom of the skirt, and tlie ribbon of a narrower width, laced through slides at the waist to tie in a lonr bow at thfe toft nf tjjB ourselvps In style. tbe belted blonse I? also ?hown. and the Bton Jfrdcct if not actually flirted en fa certainly on its way, aa nn- models In the hlch priced coa- {r.mr? It Is a natural sequence r.f the short- walsted gowns nnd the hish-waiptftd sklrta. Tn fit, new Jackets ore a marvel shoulder points, and taper sharply np to the front closing. There a ten- dency toward making this front clos- ing extend considerably higher than has been the rule In the past season, since some of the new collars wbirh nre wide in the bnrk nnd narrow to-! ward the front seem to require U'.is j i treatment, but it Is doubtful if It will be gtEcrnl until the fall days make the higher rlopinc seem desirable. The skirts the ground by nt three Inches, ar.d nre shown In a variety of conceptions, all, however, maintaining carefully the straight nr.r- row A neat serge suit with n jacket having a black tmtln sail- or collar nnd sntln cnffX had the skirt made with only ono seam nnd cnt fantilv circular. This genm st the back was covered with a panel. Othfr suit skirts arei shown with two broad sepnrate In the dressy one ja the hnck and one In the front with a ehort crws each other at the Rifles In pointed effect. The skirt to which these are fifitly switched is. of course, of narrow cut The pointed yohe prom- ises to be a prominent feature- of the Serge Is again season the fa- vored fabric for the tailored In either the fine French twill or her- Sor the way in which they reveal thajjrjnjfbone effects, Checked and strsped fter Reading the above description of all that's new and best in Spring Wearables for Dressy Women You it Find it Easy to make selections from impson s STOCK AT EASTER RE- DUCED PRICES (r Term T H E Simpson Co. LTD A Lethbridge Our Spring Opens on Tuesday, April 18 All intending students should enroll with us on this day, if possible Individual Instruction Positions guaranteed to graduates Day and Night School G arbutt JDusiness College P. O. Box 566 Phones Residence 1458 Office 1315 GEO. J. SCHMIDT, Principal ;