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Washington Post, The (Newspaper) - July 20, 1913, Washington, District Of Columbia Hints Powder and Patches Much Worn With Modern Costumes BT CZ.At.DE CHERYL Paris. 3 lU I'1 IN one if my articles I spr-ko Of tve 1" PirH "f hair ar-d nf Nit only are fashion ippfar- In powdered gowns, but they are to adopt the same picturesque fi-'iion for thf daytime. As rfvl-al L 1 am takm? th opportunity of setting forth a. few w r 'i ot advice and In the first place we must always re- member that the Combination of a fresh young skin and white -'hair came from the United States. I mean the natural combination I have known se-veral American women whose hair became gray, almost white, In early youth, and their white hair was entirely cha-mtrg when viewed In conjunction with the ex- quisite American complexion. For I am of those who would award the wreath for perfect skin to the of the United States. There Is no finer thing In the world than the complexion of an American beauty from the aae ot 16 to 30. It Is fine, clear, smooch, and yet sufficiently solid to throw off the ef- fects heat or cold. I do not think the average American complexion weaia well, but this I attribute to the national predilection for sweets and Iced drinks, yet It Is certain that while the fine skin possessed by so many American is at Its best It can defy the world. But to return to my subject. The pretty fashion of combining white hair and fresh skin had Its origin in the United States, and I believe it was a natural origin. Over here in France we have long had, from time to time, momentary fashions which demanded powder and patches. Up to the pres- ent these fashions have been extraor- dinarily magnificent and picturesque, as for example the styles In vogue In the reigns of Louis XIV and Louis XV. At the present moment we seem very much Inclined to combine powder and patches with ultra modern costumes, and when ene contemplates the possibilities opened up by such an Innovation one is Inclined to take time for serious thought. A.Dangerous Experiment. In the first place it Is necessary for women to realize that while natural or artificial white hair gives fascinating ef- fects when It is seen In combination with a youthful and very fresh skin, the game hair gives quite another effect when it is exploited by the average woman of 35 or 45 Treating the subject broadly It may be said that artificial white hair can be adopted with good results by a lovely girl of 18 or and equally lovely woman of 25 But that it Is a dangerous experiment for women between the ages of 30 and 60 After the age of 60 white hair which has evidently been powdered Is exquisite In a word It may be accapted as a fact that artificially whitened hair adds to a woman's age when she Is over 30 or 35, and this is especially the case In the realm of afternoon toilets During the grande semame at the Longchamps and Auteull race fe surprising number of powdered heads, accompanied by patches, were to be In the tribunes. Taken as a whole, the effect was good, but I recognized at once the great danger that lay before this fashion if it was allowed to become gen- eral. Powder and patches are suitable accompaniments for robes of ceremony for gorgeous receptions, even In certain cases for stately garden parties tn the great parks of famous chateaux But trie average who wears average clothes, will court disaster if she allows herself to be drawn into this fascinating i circle. A woman needs absolute genius I In matters of dress to powder and] patches successfully with, modern out- dn ir garments Nov. that t IP summer season 18 rapidly tu a close is Inclined to pass the sarturial hanger of the last tew -nontha in review The first thing that piMSpnta isself H the growing habit of I evtrpmel} decollete dresses tn Fashions for All. Tt la really quite true that PartotaJl of todav appear at fashion- able reunions in gowns that their grand- Tij'hers theij mothers, would have considered suffU iently elaborate and de- collete for evening wear It is now the fashion -to oppn the- corsages of lace and muslin gown-! Intended for day wear in a. generous V which ends Just above the watst Ime. Certainly there la a chemi- sette underneath, a chemisette of exqui- sitely fine lace or of embroidered muslin In some cases, but this becomes more and more rnrr a ffulmpe of cobweb tulle Is worn In addition of n ion Row ns are frequently transparent In cases they are exceedingly long, rearh'ner to the wrmts well over the ha bJt f-ii arf almost alwajg trans- p ir> nt Now "Ms 'ndenlablf that siioh corsages as t up arnazlnsli becoming and r i when correctly bv pretty, but thpy are objectlon- ah o adopted bv women who take dt igrht in a'factlng the attention of the ctowd It Is because of this obvious dan- ger I am dwelling on this subject and dealing with it In detail There never w as a period in the history of in It was more necessary for women the necessity of knowledge and discretion in affairs of dress We have arrived at an aee when every one !s free to wear are no longer fashions for queens and fashions for servants. the fashions of this eia a." indeed fashions for all I nviat confess that T borrowed thia lat- excellent Phrase from a clever little fashion jouirivl publ <1 in Ijonflon us beire The women of re- fined and ecl< ctic w'll have to walk WA-! will to think twice ado-it a. -atiier eccentric decol- ler st- le which will be copied bj p" "i little workgirl In the town Thej will hdAe to realize "lore thoroughlv than ever the necessity for strong individual- ism. They will have to take a firm stand, they will to decline that which is merelv novel and to adopt that which is truly picturesque and suitable all, women of refined taste will have to study the difficult art of -wearing a wide scarf or a voluminous mantle gracefully. Picturesque Scarfs Demanded. The styles of today demand the addi- tion of picturesque scarfs and graceful mantles composed of supple, semltrans- parent materials; in fact, It may almost be said that the mantle reigns supreme at the present moment- And there is a great art In wearing one of these garments elv Frajrile mantles do not seem to belong to the present generation. Girls and women have become extremely athletic and ex- traordinarily sensible about their clothes; and filmy mantles are not at all useful In the ordlnarv sense. Women are for some reason or other, taking on fashions of an age when women rareH if er took exercise, when the', strolled about parks accompanied by g'-acefu1 g'-M nounds when they drove in nlarh "calechf when the words hurry and hurtle w re practicallv unknown We are to adapt these picturesque fashions to a particularly practical age, and w P are not always succeeding. And the woist t is that we are only at the beginning "f the matter This is why I have devotee' eaj-a we lose enough little lives to make, if they could come together, a city as large as Chicago "We take it for granted that some of us must die, that Providence has arranged it that the weakest Should go first, so that the strongest might get along better, there were plenty of chil- dren and this is lust a natural weeding out But the great students of human life say this Is not true. The rate of children who die reflects upon the nation, and Instead of being a good thing by getting rid of the weak is reallv a sign that the state of welfare is far lower than It ought to be for those, who live as well as for those who die. "There are a great many reasons statistics Is the best beginning for a gov- ernment to make. And so, as a first step, we are going to try to find out In a small town all we can about the babies of that town We will make out a schedule, a list of questions, of regular gossips among mothers, for them to exchange with one another "If we know when children are we "have a much better chance of secur- ing them against being put to work too soon. A downright legal statement which must be Inspected puts an end to that sort of cheating of the children." Actress a Bricklayer. Miss Clarice Mayne, an ETngHsh vaude- ville star, laid the last brick on the Kar- smo, the new hotel which, according to the London Sketch, Fred Karno has built on Tagg's Island, Hampton Court. Miss Mayne is popular in Ijondon among theatrical folk and their following. She mairied recently to James Will- iam Tate, a Composer and pianist, -whose first wife was Lottie and who Is well known to Americans. AFTER NOG'S GOWN Ovster-white chiffon, with black vs1- at ibbons looping the tunic. "3ant-en- birque" of dark green taffetas, JUarge picture hat tnauned with doll pink j with eummer coT-pnisefl of ?rlf anglslse Theas rfr of dark si'u IvoMs iimrrfr wt-ar M 11 V ui of aj. the} w .-t a t-' n or" fon or erf pe de bint ri o r un-i edlv true that le A perfect ,-r< n, wn! 'h was unUer- sallv adrri'i-crt at 'he Oi and Prix, had a long ha? dip of jvorv inset with sil- ver and a white Bilk er embroidered in raised silk? and encrusted with little ivory motifs This a veritable work of art, and it wa? carried with a picture gown of ivory white chiffon Inset with magnificent point venlse; the corsage was very decollete, and there was a chemi- sette of point de while the sash of supple satin in a pale shade of oranpe It was a wonderful costume, taking It altogether admirable In detail Black watered silk parasols are very popular this year Xhe handles are always elaborate, very often they are exceeding! v costly Carved jade is one of the latest materials for parasol handles; and finely carved quartz with old paste Is also much used. And while speaking of jade I must not neglect to sav that emails brace-lets of this stone are the "clou" of the moment. These little bracelets are slipped on over the wrtst, and two or three are worn at the came time. C..C. T GARDEN TARTY GOWN. Lovtly robe of white chiffon and cornflower-blue tulle. White silk sash striped Paris, July HE mllltnery of the present sea- son is admirably picturesque. Quantities of tulle and lace are being used, immense cape- line shapes are composed entire- ly of pleated tulle, cloche shapes are cov- ered with fine black lace. Everything is done to obtain Old "World effects. The leading milliners are haunting the fa- mous picture galleries of Paris In the hope of finding fresh and unexpected Ideas. We borrowing larg-ely from the fashions of long ago, but it Is perhaps true that we owe more to the Watteau period than to any other. Watteau hats are particularly becoming to Parisian women. The discreet play of ribbons and the clever introduction of flowers at un- looked for points show off their beauty to perfection. It is almost safe to say that a genuine Parlslenne looks her best in such a hat as that indicated on the beau- tiful profile head I have sketched this week. This hat Is of the Watteau type It is a plateau shape, and made of fine Tuscan straw. Wide velvet ribbons In a deep shade of heliotrope are passed over the crown and tied at the back under the hair. At one side there is an immense rose In an artistic purplp-plnk shade. Such a hat as this would look exquisite If worn with one of the tulle or muslin gowns recently described It Is dellclously picturesque in outline and It ppimits the hair at the back of the head to be plainly se-en, which Is the latest idea in the world of fashion. Now that chigrnops are coming in again we find these loose ends of ribbon tied In a bow very much used on hats that turn up abruptly iyt the back. And I have seen admirable millinery models which had loose chains of roses hanging under the upturned brim of a Watteau hat. these chains being arranged round the chignon or cluster of curls. Saucer-Shaped Hats. The second hat sketched shows one of the new tulle shapes I cannot say that this style is universally becoming, but certainly It is new. The crown of such a hat as this Is law and domed in shape, the wide brim of uneven width up abruptly all around, and as the material used is always fine lace or tulle the trans- parent brim permits the crown to be plainlj seen In some cases these up- turned brlrns are wide at the sides and flat at the top They convey a curious Japanese Impression, and they also are -not universally becoming The leading milliners are also making linen and straw shapes in this style Another favorite hat of the hour ta thai which rather resembles a saucer In front, but which is turned up abruptly at the back, with an immense mass of arranged to rest on the hair hats are sllgtitlj raised on the head with the aid of a wired bandeau, and it Is consid- ered correct to tflt them forward over the face, toward the naif This Is a revival i of an old fashion, of a style which waa In i ogue, I think, In the year I860 or It is not really a graceful style, but with certain costumes It looks original and suitable. It may be taken as a fact that hats raised at the back are steadily com- ing back Into favor, but we shall not nnd them really popular before next winter, perhaps not before next spring Black taffeta cloche hats, trimmed with enormous ruches of tulle, are the rage of the hour I saw one yesterday afternoon in black taffeta, with a lining of pale blue chip and an Immense ruche of china blue tulle surrounding the crown It was an original model, and it looked exceedingly well with a directolre gown In black crepe de chine trimmed with tflack chemile fringe. For shady hats Intended for afternoon wear there is nothing more effective than the gigantic butterfly entirely composed of fine black lace.. In some ctfaes the butterflies are exaggeratedly high; In oth- ers they are exaggeratedly wide; always they are amazing. Novel Cravats of Ermiae. Among the moat attracUve. novelties of the season we may count the ORIGINAL HAT IN TTOLE. One the, newest models in black tulle; transparent brim. Very high mo oat. JEWS PA PER I IFWSPA.PFJ
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